When repairing a toilet, perhaps the most important step is the installation of plumbing equipment, because it is used constantly. The comfort of all family members depends on how conveniently and correctly the toilet is installed. Do-it-yourself installation of the device without the help of a plumber is quite real. The main thing is to follow the technology and follow the recommendations given in the article.
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Types of structures
Varieties by the nature of the plum
Plumbing fixtures are monotonous and indistinguishable from each other only at first glance. In fact, the design options for the product are numerous and, depending on the shape, there are:
- funnel-shaped
- with a shelf (peak or dish-shaped)
- with sloped back
By the nature of the movement of water, products with a horizontal and circular drain are distinguished, by size - adults and children (with different heights of the sole). The shelf in the toilet can be cast and attached.
Depending on the design features of key components, devices are produced with the following drains:
- horizontal
- vertical
- Oblique
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Self-installation of the unit does not involve a lot of time or money for preparation, however, it is important to purchase the necessary consumables:
- flexible corrugated cuff (or plastic fan pipe) for connection to the system sewers
- bendable hose for connecting the tank and the water pipe
Tools and accessories
Directly for installation and fastening you will need:
- Industrial hammer drill (another possible option is an impact drill)
- Drill (for making holes)
- Screwdriver Set
- Adjustable and open end wrenches
- Spear drill for tile work
- Yardstick
- Building level (preferably water)
- Hammer and chisel
- Marker or pencil
- Metallized tape
- FUM tape
- Sealant (preferably silicone)
- cement mortar
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Dismantling the toilet
Cement coating from the sole of the bowl is knocked down with a hammer and chisel
Before proceeding with the installation of plumbing, shut off the water supply and dismantle the old unit. To do this, follow the following scheme:
- The remaining liquid is drained from the tank
- With a wrench, unscrew the hose connecting the water supply and the tank, and then dismantle the tank itself
- Disconnect the floor mounts of the device
- If the drain is fixed with cement coating, the concrete around the knot is pierced with a chisel and hammer. The socket of the bowl is carefully pulled out of the fan pipe, draining the remaining water into the sewer. Then cut off the seal or wax ring
- The old appliance is removed from the room, the sewer hole is cleaned, temporarily covered with a piece of fiberboard or plastic. At the time of work, the hole can be closed even with rags
- A faucet is installed on the water pipe to stop the flow of water.
The easiest way is to dismantle the bowl attached to the base with adhesive mastic - just hit the base of the bowl sole in the direction away from you. This method of fastening is considered to be of poor quality and indicates an unprofessional installation of an old plumbing fixture.
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Connection of the lower part with the drain tank
The installation of a new plumbing fixture begins with the preparation of the base. The procedure depends on the condition of the floor covering in the toilet:
- If the floor is even, without drops, tiled - no additional action is required
- An uneven floor involves additional fastening of the new device to the tile with screws. To do this, 2 holes are drilled in the tile, into which, guided by building level, insert chopsticks so that the fastening is reliable
- The combination of a deformed cladding and an uneven base is a signal to remove the tiles and pour a new cement screed
- V new buildingswhere the toilet does not have a finish, work begins with pouring concrete and subsequent laying tiles
Another preparatory step is to check the connection to the sewer. If the outlet socket coincides in diameter with the sewer hole, then the connection of the device is possible through a cuff-seal.
In case of size mismatch, the connection is made through a corrugated pipe, the ends of which are coated on both sides with silicone sealant.In the future, the procedure for working depends on the design of the drain for the new device.
Horizontal
Toilet bowl with horizontal water outlet
Direct horizontal drain - the most common for the wiring of the sewer system in the buildings of the post-Soviet space.
The outlet pipe in this case is located on the back side of the bowl and horizontally "leaves" back into the wall. Such toilet bowls are connected directly to plastic sewer pipes using a pipe, sealed with rubber bands.
To connect to cast iron pipes, eccentrics of the required diameter and cuffs are additionally purchased and mounted.
Vertical
Installation of the device with a vertical drain pipe occurs through a flange
On toilets of this design, the outlet pipe faces down. This allows you to place the device at any point in the bathroom at an arbitrary angle relative to the walls.
In general, the installation procedure for a device with a vertical drain is as follows:
- A flange is installed in the drain hole, fastened with screws. Try on to the center and clamp when placing the sewer pipe
- Try on the sealing ring of the bowl according to the diameter with the flange. This design ensures tightness during operation. The plumbing socket must be tightly connected to the cuff
- Installing sanitary ware
- The drain valve is installed in the tank, the tank is attached to the shelf of the bowl and secured with nuts
oblique
Option for oblique drain outlet
The outlet of the drain pipe is considered oblique if the socket is located at an angle of 45 degrees to the adjacent wall. This design is rarely clogged and involves the variability of installation:
- Directly. The branch pipe is buried in the socket of the sewer system equipped with a cuff
- Installation takes place by rotating an eccentric in a socket equipped with a sealing ring
- With the help of a flexible outlet (corrugated pipe), which allows you to change the location of the toilet in the toilet and ensure sufficient tightness
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Installation instructions
Toilet set
Direct installation of the toilet occurs in stages and depends on the type of tank design:
- "Compact". Toilet with traditional design: bowl and separate cistern
- "Monoblock". The bowl of the product is a single unit with the tank
- Hidden mechanism and suspended structure. The tank is installed in the wall, and the bowl is "suspended" or installed on the floor
Traditional toilet and "monoblock"
The nature of the work when installing a traditional bowl in the bathroom
The installation of the bowl and tank occurs according to the following scheme:
- They try on the bowl to the base, mark the place of future installation, where they drill holes for fastening
- Dowels are inserted into the resulting holes. The tile along the outline of the sole of the bowl is smeared with silicone
- The bowl is installed in such a way that the mounting holes of the base and the device coincide. A level installation is checked with a building level.
- Insert the screws and tighten through the seals until a tight hitch
- Fasteners are masked with plugs
- Mount the seat, cover, connect the toilet to the sewer
- A tank is installed (most often tanks are sold already assembled, but according to the instructions it is easy and easy to assemble the unit yourself)
- Connect the tank to the water supply
Hidden (suspended) design
Installation of a hidden structure
In this case, the cistern mechanism is located in a wall installation that does not protrude beyond the wall and looks like its structural part. Most often, this option is combined with a hanging toilet bowl.
The method is suitable for horizontal and oblique outlet drains.
Scheme of a toilet bowl with a hidden cistern design
For such structures, the order of work is as follows:
- A frame is installed - a metal frame 130–140 cm high with fasteners for the future tank. Fix the installation to the wall from above with brackets, and from below - with screws
- When installing, the drain button is mounted at a level of 1 m from the floor, the toilet itself is at a height of 40 cm from the base, and the tank is at a distance of 15 cm from the wall. In this case, the drain pipe should exit at a level of 20 cm from the floor
- A tank is mounted and connected to the frame
- The installation is sewn up with drywall, leaving holes for the drain button, pipes and pins on which the toilet bowl is attached
- Drain holes are masked with plugs
- Optionally, drywall (preferably moisture resistant) is finished with tiles
- The tile around the sewer hole is coated with sealant
- The outlet of the bowl is connected to the sewer outlet. Mount the toilet bowl by screwing to the pins on the frame
For a floor (attached) toilet, the procedure for mounting the tank on the installation remains unchanged. The bowl itself is connected to the sewer in the traditional way.
For suspended structures, it is important to control the level so that the bowl is level.
When installing suspended structures, it is important that the pipe cut between the sewer system and the outlet pipe is short - this way blockages can be avoided.
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Schematic procedure for connecting to the sewer through a fan pipe
The work is considered completed after the drain tank is connected to the water supply system. The bottom supply is considered preferable (less noise when typing), but in many models of tanks, a side supply of water is also used.
For connection, a flexible hose is used, one end of which is fixed to the outlet of the sanitary tank, and the other to the water pipe.
Before starting operation, the tank is filled and drained several times to check the tightness of the connections. If a leak is detected, the joints are re-treated with sealant, allowing it to completely dry.
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The sole of the bowl to the tile is fixed with silicone sealant
It is possible to prevent frequent errors and defects during self-assembly of plumbing fixtures. To do this, we recommend using the following recommendations of experts:
- When buying a toilet, it is important to consider the nature of the outlet drain, especially in cases where the drain is difficult to remake. If you plan to change the place of supply of the sewer pipe, then choose any device
- When connecting the tank to the water supply, it is advised to install a tap, with which you can quickly shut off the water supply in case of emergencies
- If, when dismantling the toilet bowl or tank, the fasteners are rusted and do not detach, it is enough to apply kerosene or WD-40 universal grease to the nuts for 5-10 minutes
- When drilling holes for mounting a bowl in a tile, it is recommended to minimize the formation of dust by doing this with a hand drill, not a hammer drill
- In order to make it easier to put the corrugated pipe on the outlet pipe, its inner walls are smeared with soap
- When choosing a hidden tank design for connecting to the water supply, they do not use a flexible hose - it will go out of service quickly, and the entire wall will have to be destroyed to replace it. It is better to choose plastic pipes
Installing a toilet bowl is a simple and quite doable job on your own, without the involvement of a plumbing team. It is important to strictly follow the installation algorithm, to ensure reliable fastening and tightness of the connection.
Properly installed toilet bowl is a guarantee of comfort during operation and durability of the product.
How to properly install a toilet in the house with your own hands, experts tell in the video
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