The most pressing "spring" issue for gardeners is the cultivation of the garden.
Harmful larvae, bacteria, fungi, viruses that have survived the winter in old foliage, tree bark or soil, return to active life.
And it's time to destroy the problem "at the root", so the processing of the garden in the spring is the most important event.
Content:
- Stages and sequence of spring garden processing
- The onset of early spring and the first activities in the garden
- How to process the garden before bud break
- The period of bud break - the time of the next treatment
- Do I need processing after the start of flowering and after its completion
- Processing the garden after the formation of ovaries
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Stages and sequence of spring garden processing
Creating a beautiful and well-groomed garden is the dream of every gardener.
Gardeners work on their plots, tirelessly, "up to a seventh sweat." But all efforts are in vain if fruit trees and berries were attacked by pests or pathogens.
Despite the abundance of drugs from any "misfortune", pests and diseases multiply exponentially, adapting to the means of chemical protection. A professional approach to garden care, competent and systematic processing with modern preparations will help to solve the problem of protecting the garden.
Processing the garden in the spring is recommended for several stages, from the melting of snow and the end of frost until the moment of flowering and fruit set. The right approach to the spring spraying of the garden will certainly bear fruit.
Spring processing is divided into several successive stages:
- early spring, when the snow cover melts;
- before bud break;
- before flowering and after its completion;
- during the appearance of the first ovaries.
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Spring processing of the garden
After the snow melts, the gardener walks around his site: he cleans up plant debris and garden debris, sanitary pruning, removes covering material from young trees. With a metal brush, it cleans dead areas of the bark, cracks and hollows where beetles or their larvae could hibernate.
Spills the stem part of currants and gooseberries with hot water (+70-+90C) to get rid of fungal spores and larvae pests. The next step is digging. After the soil has thawed, it is dug up within the radius of the near-stem circle.
In organic farming, trunk circles with leaves, plant debris and other garden debris are dug in without cleaning. With this approach, the soil must be shed with urea (0.5 kg per 10 liters of water) or bacterial fertilizer should be applied in order for the composting process to proceed.
The need for whitewash
Whitewashing protects the tree from attacks by pests or pathogens.
Whitewashing of trunks and lower branches with lime is carried out in autumn, protecting the trunks of apple trees, plums, cherry plums and other pome crops from cold winds and rodents. But if this moment was missed, then in the spring you need to take up the brush. The procedure protects apple trees, pears, grapevines, other trees from pest larvae, lichens, fungal spores.
Recommendations for creating various whitewash solutions:
- composition number 1. 10 liters of water + 2.5 kg of lime + 500 g of copper sulfate + 200 g of wood glue;
- composition number 2. 10 liters of water + 2.5 kg of lime + 300 g of copper sulfate + 1 kg of clay + 1-2 shovels of manure;
- composition number 3. 8 liters of water + 1 kg of manure + 1 kg of lime + 200 g of copper sulfate;
- composition number 4. 10 l of water + 2 kg of chalk + 400 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of casein glue;
- composition number 5. 9 liters of water + 1 liter of milk or whey + 2.5 kg of chalk + 1 kg of clay + 100 ml of green soap.
blue vitriol
Such compositions have one significant drawback: lime has alkaline properties and disrupts the structure of the bark, which is noticeable upon inspection. On sale there is a special garden whitewash, which includes fungicides and adhesive additives.
It is a dry powder or paste that is diluted with water. Acrylic garden paint with moisture-proof properties is also used, which is not washed off by rain. Fungicides from diseases are also introduced into acrylic whitewash as additives.
The first spraying is the most important step
The very first spraying is carried out with mineral oil-based preparations
The first spraying of the garden in spring is recommended before the start of sap flow, before the buds swell, when the air temperature has risen slightly above zero. At this time, it is easier to destroy the overwintered larvae in the bud, and concentrated preparations will not harm garden plants.
Substances based on mineral oil are effective. Their action is based on enveloping an insect or its larvae with a thin film of oil, which leads to suffocation. The drugs are able to dissolve the chitinous shell of the pest, larvae or eggs, thereby destroying them at different stages.
To combat pests, the 30 Plus tool has been created, which belongs to the latest generation of drugs. This is a mineral-oil emulsion (MME) in bottles of different volumes. If you spray insects and their larvae with "30 Plus", they die within a day. The duration of exposure to the drug is 2-3 weeks. The rules and procedure for spraying are indicated in the instructions.
Diesel fuel, which can be purchased at any gas station, has a similar effect. This is a popular folk remedy which envelops the trunks and branches of trees and berry bushes with an oily film. Under its layer, insects suffocate and die in 2 hours.
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How to process the garden before bud break
Urea not only protects the garden, but also nourishes trees and shrubs with nitrogen.
To protect your garden from hatching insect larvae and active bacterial and fungal infections, Do not stop at the achieved results, you need to take the next step.
The period from swelling of the buds to their blooming in the middle lane falls on mid-April, but it’s better not to focus on the calendar, but on the condition and appearance of plums, cherry plums, cherries or any other tree. Grapes in the spring especially need processing: up to 50% of the crop dies from pests and diseases.
For spring spraying, products that act superficially but effectively are ideal. Dormant pests and fungal spores are "at gunpoint" if they are affected by one of the following solutions:
- 3% copper sulfate;
- 3% Bordeaux mixture;
- urea (0.6 kg per 10 liters of water);
- Prophylactin, which is effective against hard-to-kill, most harmful insects.
"People's" insecticide can be diluted independently. It is prepared on the basis of a mixture with the addition of tobacco and orange peels.
Bordeaux mixture
Cooking method:
- Pour 200 g of chopped tobacco into a 3-liter container, add garlic and onion husks, pine needles and orange peels (all in a handful)
- The resulting mixture is poured with hot water (+70C) and closed with a tight lid.
- Leave in a warm room for a week
- The infusion is filtered and diluted in 10 liters of water. Add 100 g of tar soap crushed into shavings and mix thoroughly again
- The garden is sprayed with the plant mixture. The composition can be used several times with an interval of 10-12 days before flowering
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Modern and classic preparations for garden protection
A warm time has come, the first grass has appeared and the buds on the trees have begun to bloom. But the gardener is not up to spring romance: the time has come for the third treatment.
To do this, prepare solutions of insecticides (for pests) and fungicides (for diseases). Universal, proven preparations are used as insecticides: Hom, Horus, Topaz, Aktar, Aktellik, Fitoverm, Karbofos and a number of others.
Drugs with a narrower spectrum of action have been developed that “work” on a specific horticultural crop. The calculation of the amount of solution is carried out based on the instructions for a particular drug.
The most in demand are products that simultaneously affect a large number of pests and have a contact effect. For example, Spark Double Effect destroys up to 60 types of pests. It has insecticidal activity, poisoning pests and paralyzing their nervous system.
Fungicide Speed
Of the fungicides in the garden and vegetable garden, the preparation Skor is used. This is an emulsion that, after spraying, penetrates the leaf tissue, inhibiting the growth of parasitic fungal cells. What diseases does Skor help with? It is effective in the fight against powdery mildew, late blight, scab, and various types of rot. Differs in fast action, low toxicity. Works in any temperature range.
Biopreparations are on the agenda. They contain bacteria and spores that can kill some diseases and affect a number of pests. These are Fitosporin, Baktofit, Nemabakt, Bikol and others. They have many shortcomings, which does not allow to abandon the "chemistry" completely. They are unstable and highly dependent on environmental factors. For example, biological products are unsuitable for spring spraying of the garden, since they work in the temperature range from +17 to +30C.
Preparation of tank mixtures as an option to get rid of diseases
Preparation of a tank composition from copper sulphate and urea
As fungicides for the prevention of coccomycosis, moniliosis, scab, anthracnose and other bacterial and fungal infections, tank formulations are used. These are mixtures that are used to process currants and raspberries, peaches and cherries, other fruit and berry crops “along the green cone” (the beginning of bud break).
If time is lost and the first leaves appear, then it is possible to use the same compositions with a concentration reduced by 2 times. For conifers and strawberries, weaker solutions are initially prepared.
A step-by-step recipe for preparing a solution of copper sulfate (3%) with urea:
- 300 g of copper sulfate are dissolved in warm water using any container except iron. The resulting composition is filtered and adjusted to 8 liters.
- In another container, 700 g of urea is diluted with 250 g of soap (soap is added to the composition so that the solution does not drain from the branches)
- Copper sulfate is poured into a solution of urea and 50 ml of 10% ammonia is added for a stronger effect
- The sprayer is filled with the mixture, filtering the composition through the mesh, and spraying is carried out along the “green cone”, carefully processing all the branches
- For coniferous trees, a 1-2% tank mixture solution is prepared, proportionally reducing the amount of ingredients
inkstone
A tank mixture based on ferrous sulfate is prepared in a similar way.. For pome fruits (pear), a 5% tank mixture is used, and for stone fruits (cherries, sweet cherries), a 3% composition is suitable. When diluting ferrous sulfate, citric acid should be added, otherwise the vitriol enters into a chemical interaction with water.
During this period, it is possible to treat with a tank mixture based on copper sulphate and lime. This is a Bordeaux liquid, the powder of which is more convenient to purchase ready-made, and not to breed on your own. There is an instruction on the package that details how to prepare a 3% solution for garden treatment in the spring.
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Do I need processing after the start of flowering and after its completion
During the flowering period, for rose buds, garden processing is prohibited
At the budding stage, it is important to insure the garden from the attack of the apple codling moth, apple flower beetle, apple moth, leafworms, aphids, scale insects, from scab and spotting developing during this period.
The universal drug that gardeners trust is Karbofos. This is an insecticide (for insects) and acaricide (for ticks) in one bottle. It affects the caterpillars of the codling moth, causes the death of aphids, sawflies, spider mites, weevils. It is produced in different forms, on the basis of which a solution is prepared (70 g per 10 l of water). Processing features: it is used immediately after breeding, carefully processing each leaf and flower buds.
Thiovit Jet
Another preparation for the treatment of gardens is Thiovit Jet. It has fungicidal activity and at the same time is an acaricide. Based on it, a suspension is prepared, which is well retained on the treated surface. Thiovit Jet destroys fungal infections and acts on pests, causing disruption of vital processes. Suitable for soil disinfection in the near-stem circle.
The flowering period coincides with the appearance of bud mites. If they are found on fruit trees, then they are treated with colloidal sulfur. To do this, the finished 70% paste is taken in an amount of 80 g and dissolved in 10 liters of soapy water. A high-quality, single spraying is enough to destroy the kidney mite.
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The last spring treatment is carried out for preventive purposes.
To destroy the remaining pest larvae or fungal spores, step 4 is carried out: preventive treatment with universal means. Use:
- copper oxychloride;
- Bordeaux liquid;
- urea.
If the garden is healthy and there are no visible traces of pests or diseases, then a single spraying is carried out with solutions that are weak in concentration, so as not to harm the small ovaries the size of a pea and not to burn the leaves.During this period, foliar top dressing is useful, which increase the immunity of trees and shrubs, their resistance to pest invasion or disease.
Spraying trees in spring
Focusing on how to treat the garden in the spring from pests, you will not have to suffer from a poor harvest in the autumn. It is important to complete all work in a timely manner, on schedule and deadlines, focusing on the physiological rhythms of the plant. And then the garden will please with bright foliage, lush flowering and excellent harvest.
Gardeners recommend their spring garden processing methods, video below.
How to spray the garden in spring. Video. garden world
Processing the garden in the spring from diseases and pests is a guarantee of good growth, development and fruiting of trees and shrubs | (Photo & Video) +Reviews
Hey
Good afternoon, good, voluminous article. The only request - please specify please specify how much you need to dilute the preparations. I am a beginner gardener and I do not fully understand your recipes.
Hello Svetlana. What is your problem with the garden and what specific recipes are you interested in. I will try to answer in more detail.
She inherited a plot. There are many old trees there. Cherries are almost wild. Soil - land on the bayonet, then sand. I want to remove trees and plant new ones. I am interested in how to fertilize the soil with pastures, I am looking for and reading information on the soil, planting and fertilizing new seedlings. I would be grateful for any advice. Thanks in advance
Svetlana, what is your region?
Hello Svetlana. 1. Fertilize directly in the hole for planting a shrub or tree. It is advisable to dig it out a little more for long-term nutrition and root growth. Traditionally, soddy soil, humus (compost), peat (1: 1: 1) are introduced into the hole. Add a good handful of ash, 1 tablespoon of urea and a matchbox of superphosphate. 2. The soil in the area is sandy, so drainage may not be necessary. 3. Mulch tree trunks with sawdust, needles, peat. 4. Feed during the growing season with various organic compounds (mullein, ash or herbal infusion). The soil is sandy, so the amount of top dressing should be increased (useful substances quickly go into the deeper layers). 4. Use green manure, which is then embedded in the soil as a fertilizer. Think over the site plan in advance, taking into account the needs of the plants. Be sure to respect the distance during landing, counting on their adult size. If you need specific recommendations on any composition of natural fertilizers, write.