Hunting belt for fruit trees from garden pests: description, types of belts, DIY making (Photo & Video) + Reviews

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hunting belt

The larvae of most pests that live on fruit trees descend to the ground in the fall to pupate, and climb up again in the spring. It is on this that the principle of their mechanical destruction is based. To collect the larvae, you only need to make a trapping belt for trees with your own hands.

Content:

The principle of operation of the trap belt
Types of belts
When is the best time to set traps?
Advantages and disadvantages
Dry trapping rings
sticky belts
poison traps
Manufacturing instructions
Ready-made belts from manufacturers
Important Tips
- - Two types of cone (trapping belt) for fighting ants and aphids on fruit trees

The principle of operation of the trap belt

This method of pest control has been known since ancient times - it has been around for hundreds of years. But this, believe me, did not become less effective. With its regular use, the number of pests of fruit trees in the garden is significantly reduced.

Such traps are especially effective against caterpillars, for example, leaf rollers. Able to stop trapping rings and adult insects - weevils, fruit moths, whiteflies, beetles or geese, as well as ants that can populate the foliage of trees with entire colonies of aphids.

Trapping fruit belts (rings) are devices in the form of ribbons, "skirts" or funnels up to 20 cm wide, fixed on tree trunks at a height of 0.5-1.0 m.

Traps are often screwed to thick skeletal branches that lean close to the ground.

The trapping belt that stopped hundreds of pests

If there is tall grass next to the fruit tree, it is better to attach the trap higher so that insects cannot climb up it. Too narrow, less than 15 cm, it is not worth doing it - ants are able to cross over dead relatives, as if on a living bridge.

Materials for the manufacture can be used any: from paper, burlap, tow or bundles of straw to foam rubber and polyethylene film. The most important thing is that they are strong enough to withstand gusts of wind and precipitation.

It is advisable to inspect the traps on the trunks once a week or more often. After all, the pests that got into them can get out. It is also necessary to check the belts after heavy rains - at this time, more insects can accumulate. More often they inspect fixtures both during and after the flowering of trees.

To avoid "interception" of the bark, the rope harness should be periodically loosened or shifted to another place. To collect accumulated insects, a film is first spread under the tree, and only then the belt is carefully removed or folded back.

When using sticky or poison traps, they will need to be changed periodically. Beetles caught in traps are collected and burned at the stake or placed in a closed container with water, in which insects die over time.

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Types of belts

Sticky gate trap

According to the methods of delaying insects, all trapping belts are divided into 3 groups:

1 Dry: smooth or mesh materials are used to trap insects; in the first case, the beetles simply cannot climb up the slippery surface; when using mesh fabrics (for example, burlap), insects become entangled in them.

2 Sticky: after applying the adhesive composition, pests stick to it with their paws; sometimes a strip of glue is applied not to the belt, but directly to the bark of the tree.

3 Impregnated with insecticides (poisonous): they are a strip of fabric impregnated with substances harmful to insects; so that the poison does not erode so quickly, the fabric is wrapped on top with thick paper or film.

Trapping rings can take the form:

Skirt-shaped tree hunting belt

skirts: its top is tightly wrapped around the tree trunk, while the lower, wider part remains free
bilateral funnel: traps of a similar shape are more effective, because they are able to detain insects moving in different directions; such devices are often made of cardboard that can hold its shape; attach a two-sided funnel to the trunk, bandaging in the central part
Gates: it is very simple to make a hunting belt of this form - the trunk is simply wrapped tightly with a strip of fabric, non-woven fabric or a film fastened in two places with a rope or twine

When is the best time to set traps?

They wrap and then fasten trapping belts on the trunk with a string or rope in early spring, in March, even before the pests leave the soil.

This must be done before the awakening of the kidneys at a time when the first thawed patches appear, and the ambient temperature does not reach 5-6 C.

To enhance the effect, trapping belts are often treated with sticky solutions or insecticides.

Ant traps

Able to neutralize such devices and pests descending from trees for further settlement. Therefore, traps should not be removed after the onset of heat. They should be on tree trunks all season from March to October.

Remove belts only after the first frost. Leaving them on trees for the winter is not recommended - frozen traps can damage the bark of the plant. Indeed, even a small amount of moisture accumulated under the trapping belt often leads to the formation of many microcracks.

They are not harvested in the fall only in the southern regions of Russia - insects here are able to wake up and be active at any time.

For ants aphids are a kind of "cash cows" that supply a sweet milk called honeydew. It is the ants who breed these insects and move them to the best specimens of plants for feeding.

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Advantages and disadvantages

The most important advantage of hunting belts is their absolute environmental safety. After all, even when using insecticides, traps are applied to a limited space.

Spraying with pesticides, especially when invaded pests, have to be carried out repeatedly, and over the entire crown of the tree. If you find a massive appearance of leafworm, fruit moth, weevil at the beginning of summer, there can be no question of any spraying of plants. At the time of flowering, this is prohibited.
Plus, toxic substances are dangerous not only for pests, but also for the plants themselves and people who will eat the fruits in the future. Plus, even a few years after treatment, pesticides washed off the foliage or plant stems by rain remain in the soil. Trapping belts are absolutely harmless and devoid of all these shortcomings.

Glass wool trap belt

Another advantage of such devices is the ease of manufacture. You can make a hunting belt for trees in just a matter of minutes. This will not require any material costs. Moreover, it will be possible to catch with the help of such a trap a lot of insects.

The disadvantages of such devices is the high labor intensity of the work. In the presence of a large number of areas occupied by fruit crops, it will be necessary not only to attach a trap to each of them.
It is necessary to periodically bypass the entire area, replacing fixtures. That is why trapping belts are used more often in small areas. The second disadvantage of using adhesive or poisonous tapes is the likelihood of the death of insects beneficial to nature - bees, ladybugs, etc.

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Dry trapping rings

Such belts are intended for catching insects in special traps. To do this, a strip of cardboard or film in the form of a skirt or funnel is attached to the tree trunk. Its upper part is tightly tied with twine to the tree trunk so that insects do not have the opportunity to get through small holes.

Dry belt traps

Beetles or caterpillars trying to climb the canopy run into an obstacle that is insurmountable for them. Dry trapping belts work very effectively on apple treessuffering from codling moth. This pest can be easily detained with the help of such traps.

Check them more often than poisonous or sticky ones - at least once a week. After all, they detain pests only for a while. Insects caught in it can safely get out.

You can also make a hunting belt in the form of a “skirt” from rubber. To do this, the cut blank is wrapped around the trunk. To connect the seam of the “skirt”, it is smeared with wood glue. For reliability, the resulting cavity can be filled with any viscous liquid, for example, oil or glue.

Such protection will last for a long time, so it will be possible to check the trap less often. As the trunk grows, the rubber belt will stretch. Over time, if it rises with the trunk, it can only be pulled down a little. Periodically, only the oil or adhesive composition will have to be changed. The old one can be removed with a regular rag.

Before attaching a trapping ring, be sure to clean the trunk of old, loose bark. The device in this case will fit it more tightly. The remaining gaps can be covered with plasticine or clay.

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sticky belts

To create such protection, you will need a strip of fabric or film up to 30 cm wide. Its outer side is coated with liquid resin or a special adhesive composition. It is usually applied in a spiral.

Experienced gardeners on the forums advise trapping belts for trees to coat not only with glue, but also with substances that have pungent odors, for example, naphthalene. Such devices are considered more effective.

sticky belt

You can also use birch tar. The tape smeared with it is tightly wrapped around the trunk with the sticky side up. To prevent small pests from getting under the fabric or film, their edges must be bent down.

Traps need to be scanned once a week. If the smeared surface ceases to stick, the belts are replaced with new ones. Such rings are most effective against caterpillars and ants.

Ordinary glue dries quickly, so there is no point in using it. Purchase special sticky compounds in the store, for example, garden non-drying brands BioMaster, Vesta, Uniflex, Ecotrap. If you can't find garden glues, replace them with rodent-catching glue - ALT or Uniflex. It works just as well.

When using pine resin, it is mixed with rosin and petroleum jelly. It is better to use the following proportions: 10:1.2:1.5. The resulting mass is well boiled so that a sticky substance is obtained.

To make a sticky hunting belt from tar, it must be mixed with vegetable (preferably burdock) oil in a ratio of 2: 1. The mixture is also put on fire and boiled for about 5 hours.

If you find a large colony of aphids, place a sprig of celandine inside it. On the second day, the aphid will die.

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poison traps

Such belts are often called self-killing. By design, they are similar to dry and sticky ones, that is, they can be made in the form of funnels, skirts or collars. During the period of the mass emergence of insects, devices impregnated with poison are more effective than conventional traps.

Belt impregnated with insecticide

To make a poison belt, you will need a small strip of rags and plastic wrap. She pre-wrap the tree to protect the bark from the penetration of pesticides. After winding a layer of cloth soaked in insecticide onto the trunk, it is covered with a “skirt” of film. So it will weather more slowly, and will last longer.

Impregnate poison belts for fruit trees, it is necessary only with preparations approved for use in gardens. With a massive invasion of pests, such traps can be combined with other types of belts. For example, sticky tape and insecticide-treated tape can be attached to one trunk.

Ready-made sticky or poisonous belts, as well as slow-drying adhesive compositions for smearing them, are available at most stores selling garden tools or seeds.

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Manufacturing instructions

Applying the adhesive

Making a trap belt will take you just a couple of minutes:

1Cut out a strip of cardboard, film, thick paper or fabric up to 20 cm thick.

2For the manufacture of a double-sided funnel, its parts must first be glued together. The usual collar belt is cut out in the form of a strip. To make a skirt, fold the canvas or cardboard in half and cut out a small notch.

3Wrap the belt tightly around the tree trunk twice.

4Attach it with a rope or soft wire in two places to the trunk.

5Cover the remaining small holes with plasticine, dough, garden pitch or clay.

To protect against hares that eat the bark of young fruit trees, for the winter you can attach another type of belt to the tree - rustling. When touched, the animals get scared and run away. However, it is not worth tying such a belt too tight, so that the frozen moisture that gets into its folds does not damage the bark.

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Ready-made belts from manufacturers

Hunting belt “Argus”

If you don't want to bother with crafting traps, you can also purchase them from the store.

You can use the following brands from trusted manufacturers:

Masha

"Mashenka": is a plastic tape 5 m long, treated with a long-term non-drying adhesive and insecticide on both sides; recommended period of use March-October; making a trap out of such a tape is simple - just wrap the barrel around it.

Trap

"Kapkan": the kit includes two laminated paper tapes of 75 cm, impregnated with a sticky compound; they are enough to make traps for 3-6 trees; before the appearance of buds, it can be used to trap insects wintering in the ground, and in the spring rising up the trunks; in summer, the glue "Kapkan" is used to destroy caterpillars and ants; closer to autumn, moths come across well on it.

Argus

"Argus": produced in rolls of 5 m; from the outside the tape is covered with waterproof glue; its drying time is at least 60 days; very effective for catching caterpillars and ants.

Aeroxon

Aeroxon (Germany): non-drying adhesive belt 3.5 m long, equipped with a strong fastening 8.5 m rope; absolutely safe for the plant and does not contain poisons; not afraid of moisture.

Silvalur Glue Band

Silvalur Glue Band: For pest control, the Swedish manufacturer recommends using a 5m sticky tape; the kit includes a foam tape, with which the device is tightly attached to the trunk, and a fastener in the form of a lock; such a belt must be applied with the sticky side outward, with a slight overlap.

Before installing a hunting belt to protect against spring temperature changes, it is advisable to whiten the trunk.

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Important Tips

Method for installing a solid oil belt

Finally, I would like to give some important tips:

1In some years, the invasion of leaf-eating colonies can completely destroy even mature trees. Saving the crop in this case will be much more difficult. It is better to play it safe and periodically catch insects, preventing them from multiplying.

2Never attach brightly colored traps to trunks. They will attract beneficial insects - butterflies, bees, wasps and bumblebees. It is better to make a dark belt or green ring.

3You can scare away flying insects from a tree with a fringed skirt made of thin fabric, for example, silk.

4Glass wool is often used as a trapping belt, which is an excellent barrier to insects, especially caterpillars (after all, their body is very vulnerable). But it is better to use it if there are no small children in the garden in the summer. A good protection is also a strip of foam rubber or synthetic fibrous material that adheres to the bark more tightly than ordinary fabric.

5For small ants, dry traps are not a serious obstacle - they are best kept with sticky strips or poisonous traps.

It is better to purchase adhesive compositions such as ALT, designed for small rodents. These adhesives are of very high quality and are able to remain sticky for up to 3 years.

6When attaching the belt, do not forget to coat all the cracks with clay or plasticine, otherwise small insects will easily crawl into the holes left.

7It is more convenient to use construction tape as a tape - it fits snugly to the surface, plus it is not afraid of moisture. However, it is not worth gluing it directly to the trunk - you must first protect the bark from damage with a layer of thin tissue. Otherwise, when removing, you will tear off the bark in pieces. You can also use adhesive tape instead of a rope to attach other materials to the trunk.

8You can also attach construction tape with the sticky side out. True, such a trap will have to be changed more often - the adhesive composition dries out rather quickly.

9Sticky fly tapes can be used as traps. But they should not be wound directly on the trunk - the bark of the tree can be seriously affected by the poison. Wrap it first with film or foil, and then wrap it with tape so that the total width of the trap is 15-20 cm.

10To prevent flying beneficial insects from falling into the trap, fasten a visor made of plastic, cardboard or film over it.

11Some gardeners apply poisonous compounds directly to the bark. If you don't want the tree to get burned, never do this. Wrap the barrel in advance with at least plain paper.

12To prevent the adhesive from drying out quickly, protect the belt from above with a film or cooking paper.

13When setting up poison traps, remember to wear gloves and a mask.

14If there is no large invasion of insects, and a small number of pests fall into the trap, you can check it less often - a couple of times a month.

15Another environmentally friendly way to protect against apple codling moth is jars of fermented sweet drinks (kvass or compote), suspended in the region of skeletal branches. But you need to cook them only at night - during the day they can get useful insects - butterflies, bees, wasps or bumblebees.

You can see with your own eyes how you can make a do-it-yourself hunting belt for fruit trees in the video by clicking on the following link:

Two types of cone (trapping belt) for fighting ants and aphids on fruit trees

Hunting belt for fruit trees from garden pests: description, types of belts, DIY making (Photo & Video) + Reviews

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