Home violet (aka uzambar violet, aka saintpaulia) is a very popular houseplant with a spectacular appearance. Decorative and leaves, and stems, and, of course, flowers.
Domestic violets number several tens of thousands of varieties and hybrids (of which about 2.5 thousand are the result of the work of domestic breeders), which differ mainly in color and shape of flowers.
But in some cases, there are also deviations in the degree of pubescence of the leaves, their colors and configuration (for example, violets without pubescence, plants with black leaves, variegated specimens, etc.).
In addition, there are giant violets, whose leaf span reaches 60 cm, and dwarf violets with rosettes no more than 6 cm.
In any case, the sight of blooming saintpaulias pleases not only the gardener, but everyone who casts their eyes on these beautiful and delicate flowers.
Content:
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Introduction
blooming violets. Flowering for saintpaulias is very important, and not only for reasons of decorativeness.
Of the 32 thousand existing varieties, only the first 100-200, related to early selection, are able to transmit varietal traits well to offspring during vegetative propagation. The remaining varieties and hybrids belonging to later selections do this much worse.
Roughly speaking, after 4-5 generations, varietal characteristics may disappear completely, and the plant will return to the original "wild" appearance that it has in its native Usambar Mountains of East Africa. Perhaps the flower grower will be lucky and the appearance of the degraded violet will resemble those same varieties of the first selection - in any case, you can forget about the original form of the plant that was purchased.
To avoid this, it is advisable to propagate violets by seed method once every 2-3 generations with cross-pollination by close-varietal varieties.
And here lies one of the main problems of Saintpaulia. Despite the fact that for more than 130 years this plant has been grown by flower growers around the world, many still face the problem of the lack of flowering of domestic violets.
The article discusses why domestic violets do not bloom, and how you can help the plant cope with this problem.
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Humid and hot jungles of East Africa - the place of the natural range of domestic violets
All indoor flowers "work" according to the same algorithm: in order to initiate the flowering process, they need to create the right conditions. Therefore, tulips or orchids that bloomed in winter have not surprised anyone for a long time. Only a few species, even in apartments, follow their natural biorhythms and it is extremely difficult to adapt them to the new regime.
Of course, for most flowers, conditions should be changed as they change in their natural habitat. In this case, various incidents and inconsistencies are possible. So most of the inhabitants of the Southern Hemisphere bloom when it is winter in our climate; accordingly, in winter they need to create an appropriate hot temperature regime and lighting for more than 12 hours a day.
Homemade violet or saintpaulia is no exception and requires its own special conditions
The climate of the Usambar Mountains has characteristic features that are "native" conditions for keeping violets:
- high rainfall (from 2000 to 3000 mm per year)
- day temperature from +16° to +30°C
- night temperature from +11°С from + 16°С
- daylight hours from 10 to 14 hours
- hot season - from December to March
- the period of low temperatures (rainy time) - from May to October
As you can see, the conditions for keeping violets are typical for the equatorial climate.
These are exactly what you need to create for the plant: temperature and light conditions are determined by the time of year, based on the amount of precipitation and their seasonality, irrigation rates and their frequency are determined, etc.
In most cases, this is enough, but, unfortunately, the listed factors are not all. Domestic violets cannot be called very unpretentious plants. Saintpaulia's entry into the Northern Hemisphere affected its period of activity and interaction with the environment.
Further, the influence of each important factor affecting flowering will be considered in more detail. They are listed in order of importance and effectiveness. When we determine the reason for the lack of flowering, we need to act according to the following algorithm: one of the listed actions is performed, if it does not help, then proceed to the next one.
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Creating the necessary conditions
Violets - home care
You should start with the fact that the violet must be placed in its natural conditions. Let's consider this process in more detail.
No. 1 Temperature regime
For Saintpaulia, a temperature of 20-25 degrees will be comfortable. Heat above 30 degrees violets is contraindicated
Saintpaulia should grow on the windowsill of a south window at temperatures from +16°C to +30°C. Moreover, in winter, temperatures should be slightly higher than in summer. Therefore, it is allowed to take pots with plants outside in the summer, but it is advisable to cover them from rain and direct sunlight. The plant allows daily temperature fluctuations up to 12 degrees.
An excess of heat for a plant is as harmful as an excessively cold atmosphere. Heat above 30 degrees violets is extremely contraindicated. They begin to fade not only the buds, but also the leaves.
No. 2 Ground
The main requirements for the soil are its acidity and softness.
The substrate should be loose and light. It does not necessarily contain too much soil. Most violet soils are distinguished by a high percentage of filler.
It is best to use a store-bought mix to grow this plant, to which several components should be added.
For 10 liters of purchased substrate, 1 liter will be needed:
- biohumus or humus
- perlite
- vermiculite
- sphagnum (optional)
All components are evenly mixed and subjected to mandatory disinfection in the oven. The use of potassium permanganate for disinfection is not recommended.
No. 3 Watering
Moisture should not fall on the pubescent violet leaves, so it is best to apply watering through the pan
Watering is carried out every 4-5 days.Under each plant, from 150 ml (in winter) to 250 ml (in summer) of water are applied per watering. Watering in the summer can be done more often, once every 3-4 days. Thus, the plant will receive the amount of moisture sufficient for the formation of a leaf rosette and the formation of buds.
The best time for watering is in the morning, but you can do them in the evening.
Often flower growers, growing violets, use wick watering. This is a correct and rational method, but it is good to use it in the case of the normal development of the plant, when it grows and blooms and forms seeds.
Wick watering violets
For plants that do not bloom, it is advisable to use conventional watering methods, since in this case there is a strong confidence that moisture was really introduced under the bush and got into the root system. Of course, you can check this with wick watering, but you will have to dig up the soil in order to inspect the root system.
No. 4 Top dressing
Phosphorus-potassium fertilizer
For violets, several feeding schemes are used:
- can be fertilized several times a season
- a weekly feeding schedule is often used
- it is permissible to feed the plant in microdoses with each watering
It all depends on the desire of the grower. In this process, the main thing is to comply with the rules. In any case, a special fertilizer is used for violets, purchased in flower shops.
The basis of the mixture can be produced in two versions: containing a complete set of elements (nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus) or a simple phosphorus-potassium mixture. Regardless of the filling of the base, complex fertilizers for violets include sodium, magnesium and boron.
As a rule, this top dressing is supplied as a liquid (poured in 100-200 ml containers) and can be easily divided into monthly or weekly doses. Also during the growing season it is allowed to feed the plant with mineral fertilizer (preferably urea).
liquid fertilizer
If there is a desire to speed up the flowering process with the help of chemicals, it is better to use specialized preparations. (e.g. Flowering, Ripen, Bloom, Master Color Violet, etc.) However, such products should be used with caution, as they are hormonal drugs and can disrupt the physiology of the plant or weaken its immunity. After flowering, the violet will start to hurt, etc.
№5 Humidity
Violets without hairy leaves Mac Southern Springtime suffering from conditions of low humidity: cracked areas are visible on the leaves. The plant in the background grew in low light conditions.
Relative humidity in a room with violets should be at least 40% in winter and not more than 60% in summer. And this indicator can be very important. Some flower growers jokingly complain that violets were the reason they bought a hygrometer - a device for determining air humidity.
The air in the home is usually too dry. To increase the relative humidity, the following methods are used:
- Use a humidifier
- Wet moss or foam rubber sponges moistened with water are laid out around the violets.
- In winter, wet towels are hung on the batteries
- Use wick poly
Too much moisture is also harmful. It can lead to rotting of the roots, leaves and growing points of violets. Usually, in order to reduce humidity, airing the room is used. In some cases, the use of oil heaters is justified.
№6 Illumination
Violets in direct sunlight are prone to burns.
Violet is an equatorial plant. This means that the amount of light it has does not depend on the season. In order for violets to bloom, the illumination must be at least 12 hours a day in both summer and winter. With a lack of lighting, violets cease not only to bloom, but also to form new leaves.
If natural light is enough in the summer, then, starting from October, the plant will need artificial light. Usually fluorescent lamps are used. The backlight is placed at the top (not on the sides).
In addition, being a plant of the lower tier, Saintpaulia hardly ever sees direct sunlight at all. Ideal for her is diffused, but bright light.
In order to ensure uniform illumination of the bush, it is recommended to install the pot 30-40 cm from the window. The location of artificial lighting lamps should be such that the distance from them to the plant is not less than 20 cm.
It should also be understood that violet, like any flower, has a dormant period. Usually in our climate it is made either after autumn flowering or at the beginning of winter. For 1.5-2 months, it is recommended not to water the plant abundantly (or even reduce watering to 1 time in 10 days) and not to artificially illuminate. This will give him time to rest and gain strength.
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Violet leaf infested with cyclamen mite
The main disease that Saintpaulia is susceptible to is gray leaf rot. In more rare cases, gardeners are faced with white rot and powdery mildew. In addition, under natural conditions, the violet is regularly attacked by the cyclamen mite. Our temperate climate adds aphids, mealybugs and thrips to this pest.
All these pests not only inhibit the development of the plant, but they can also pose a potential danger to his life. Naturally, there can be no question of any flowering of a flower infected with a disease or pest.
The fight against diseases is quite simple and does not require special material costs. It is enough to remove and destroy all damaged parts of the plant and treat the soil with copper-containing preparations. In addition, the frequency of watering should be observed and excessive soil moisture should not be allowed. It is also recommended to separate diseased plants from healthy ones during treatment.
Thrips on violets lead to damage to the leaves and the appearance of spots on them
Pests are dealt with in a variety of ways. from manual collection to the use of acaricides (since almost all pests are mites). The most popular are Sunmite, Neoron and Omite.
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Transfer
Violet transplant
In the flowering of violets, an important role is played by the frequency of changing the soil and the size of the container in which the cultivation takes place. As mentioned earlier, violet needs regular feeding, so sooner or later the soil has to be changed.
The optimal time for its replacement is 1-2 times a year. The soil is changed in the off-season - in spring or autumn. In addition to enriching the substrate with nutrients, this procedure also allows you to carefully examine the root system and carry out its sanitation by removing diseased and damaged roots.
The most important thing at this stage is choose the right diameter of the pot in which the violet will be transplanted.
Pot with drainage
Recommended pot diameters for various varieties of violets:
- "Mini" varieties - diameter 5-7 cm
- ordinary or medium varieties have enough pot from 7 to 10 cm
- large varieties can be grown in containers up to 13 cm in diameter.
For violets, ceramic pots are recommended, as they have the ability to pass air to the root system. Use plastic containers (pots, boxes, flowerpots, etc.)etc.) is not desirable, since this has a bad effect not only on the aeration of the roots, but can also lead to increased humidity near its edges.
During a plant transplant, many flower growers carry a violet along with an earthy clod. This is a mistake as the substrate needs to be completely replaced. You should not be afraid to damage the root system of the plant when washing it - Saintpaulia has a very high ability to regenerate and vegetatively propagate even from leaf clippings. Also, during transplantation, all the children of the plant located on the edge of the outlet are removed.
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Extreme effect on the violet of warm water - complete immersion of the plant in warm water
In the event that conventional methods do not work, violets try to “wake up” in other ways. Shock stimulation is applied to plants that have ceased to bloom. Do not think that this is a rarity: often, thanks to such methods, it is possible not only to make the flower bloom, but also literally breathe new life into it. Plants exposed to extreme conditions also begin to grow quickly and have an attractive appearance.
Unfortunately, violets are quite delicate and fragile plants, so not all methods of shock therapy are applicable to them. For example, using too low temperatures can kill plants.
Therefore, from the whole variety of methods, only two remain:
- Irrigation with hot water
- Forced rest followed by abrupt awakening
Watering Saintpaulia
In the first case, Saintpaulia is once watered with water with a temperature of up to 60 degrees. Sometimes sprinkling or complete immersion is used, but in this case the temperature should not exceed 40-50 ° C, and the exposure time is 0.5-1 minute.
It is believed that with such an impact, the plant will begin to lay flower stalks in the next 5-7 days.
The second way is more humane, but sometimes its effectiveness can be even higher. Indeed, often many flower growers do not even give their pets a rest, forcing them to bloom year-round.
In order to put the violet into a dormant state, it is taken to a completely dark place for 1-2 weeks, and then provided with maximum lighting, watering and top dressing, which are usually done in the middle of summer. It is believed that such a sharp change in conditions can force the plant to quickly change its physiology and begin the formation of flower stalks.
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In fact, there are many ways to make violet bloom all year round. Usually, it is enough to use a specialized tool (for example, the previously described Ripen) against the background of removing old peduncles and stimulating with temperature or darkness.
Despite the fact that violets bloom at home for a longer time than in natural nature, it is highly undesirable for them to do this without interruption. Even if you follow all the rules of plant agrotechnology: use suitable soil, provide them with optimal temperature conditions and enough light, water and feed them on time, etc., violets will still need a dormant period.
Otherwise, the plant will simply die after about 1.5-2 years of continuous flower "marathon". The duration of the dormant period is from 40 to 60 days and usually it occurs in the winter.
Violet flowering all year round is allowed once in the life of the plant, after which a dormant period of a slightly longer duration (up to 90 days) must necessarily follow. After that, the violet should be carefully looked after, otherwise it will be almost impossible to achieve lush flowering from it in the next few years.
After the rest period is over, the plant should be transplanted immediately. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the foliage and petioles.And as soon as it adapts after transplantation (the rooting period will pass and new leaves will begin to appear), feed it with a complex compound containing phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen.
Usually, after a year of constant bud formation and flowering, the plant recovers for 6-8 months. At this time, new leaves and stepchildren grow in him, the root system strengthens and the volume of the outlet increases. But such violets bloom much later: closer to 10-12 months, so the flower grower will only have to wait to save his pets.
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