Even in relatively warm climates, early harvests cannot be achieved without the use of a greenhouse. This structure allows you to speed up the ripening of vegetables by about 1.5-2 months.
In addition, some types of plants need to be grown exclusively in greenhouse conditions. Any self-respecting gardener is simply obliged to have a greenhouse on his site.
Content:
- Step-by-step production of a greenhouse
- Action #1 Preparing and leveling the site
- Action number 2 Making the base
- Action number 3 Making the second tier
- Action No. 4 Making a passage and a ridge
- Action #5 Installation of plastic pipes
- Action number 6 Creating doors and vents
- Action number 7 Covering the greenhouse with a film
- Action #8 Filling the greenhouse with soil
Read also: Veranda attached to the house - expanding the living space: projects, tips on how to create your own hands (200 original photo ideas)
Step-by-step production of a greenhouse
Greenhouse designs can be very diverse - from the simplest film cuts stretched over a wire frame to stationary structures made of concrete and glass, which are equipped with autonomous heating system.
Greenhouses of small height have a rather narrow application - they mainly grow either seedlings or vegetables of the lower tier. For growing popular crops such as tomatoes and cucumbers, the height of the greenhouse should already be sufficient to form tall bushes or arrange trellises.
Light greenhouse from plastic pipes
The cost of such structures can be quite high, and this factor can become a serious obstacle for a gardener who intends to build a greenhouse for himself. Below is the manufacture of a greenhouse from simple and cheap materials. The cost of such a structure is no more than 150 euros. The procedure for making a greenhouse is as follows:
Action #1 Preparing and leveling the site
Some bricks or concrete blocks may be suitable for this purpose.
After choosing a place for the site, it is necessary to level the base for the future greenhouse.
At the same time, the need to build even some kind of foundation no, because the mass of the greenhouse is not too large. It is enough in some places to dig up the ground or lay bricks.
Action number 2 Making the base
The bars are screwed to additional posts 3-50 cm high, located at the corners of the structure.
First, the first tier of boards is assembled, which is located at the base of the greenhouse. For this, rectangular bars are used (approximately 50 by 120 mm).
The bars are connected to the posts with self-tapping screws and screwdriver
The length of the bars should ideally be equal to the length of the walls, but you can also use the connection of several bars of shorter length.
Action number 3 Making the second tier
Passage in the greenhouse, consisting of two tiers
After the first tier, which is the base of the greenhouse, the second is made. It is made from bars of the same size, located directly above the first tier.
In fact, the height of the beds will be determined by the number of tiers. Such a high frame is necessary if the soil is excessively moist (swampy) or if high beds. If the soil is dry enough, or there is no need for high beds, you can get by with one tier.
Action No. 4 Making a passage and a ridge
Doorway located at the beginning of the passage
Next, you need to create a doorway. It can be on one side or be through. An alternative option is to create a small window on the side opposite the passage.
The opening is made from the same bars as the base of the greenhouse. You can use thinner bars, but it’s better not to do this, since the opening will not only serve as a door to the greenhouse, it will be part of its supporting structure. On top of the ridge, which rests on the openings, plastic pipes will be attached, which will be used as the walls of the future greenhouse.
Assembling the opening is quite simple - two long boards should be used, one short. They need to be connected in the form of a letter "P" and install the resulting structure on the base of the greenhouse. All connections, as well as the connection of the base, are made with self-tapping screws.
There should be several such arches. Their number depends on the size of the greenhouse. For structural strength, arches should be located at a distance of no more than 3 m from each other. For a greenhouse 5 m long, you need 3 arches.
Passage of three arches with a ridge mounted on it
The skate is a long board placed on edge and installed in the middle of all three arches. Arches (in this case, one arch), located in the middle, perform a very important function - they provide strength to the entire structure and prevent the ridge from bending in case of excessive loads.
Fastening the skate to the arches is carried out using metal corners
Action #5 Installation of plastic pipes
Pipes used for wall mounting
Plastic pipes with a diameter of at least 5 cm are used as fasteners for walls. It is undesirable to use a smaller diameter for the reason stated earlier. Smaller diameter pipes will support the weight of the entire structure, but under the influence of snow (and sometimes just strong winds) they can bend or even break completely.
The length of the pipes should be such that they form a perfect semicircle with a diameter equal to the width of the greenhouse. That is, for a greenhouse 3 meters wide, the length of the pipes should be equal to 3x3.14 = 9.42 m. It is better to round the resulting value up (that is, in this case it will be 9.5 m).
The number of pipes is selected based on the width of the greenhouse. On average, it is recommended to place pipes at a distance of 50-70 cm from each other. Taking into account the extreme arcs, the total number of pipes for a greenhouse with a length of 5 m is 8 pieces. Accordingly, the total length of the purchased pipe for this greenhouse will not exceed 80 m.
For fastening pipes, a profile tape in the form of a strip is used. For installation, it is enough to use a tape 1.5-2 cm wide.
The length of the strips into which the tape is cut is 25-30 cm.
Cutting the tape into pieces is done using a conventional metal cutter
Next, the pipes are screwed to the base and the ridge using cut strips.
The lower edge of the pipes should be fixed at the level of the beams of the first tier
The result is the following greenhouse frame design:
Finished greenhouse frame
Action number 6 Creating doors and vents
Reinforcement of the door structure
The door is made of square bars measuring 30x30 or 40x40 mm. Its dimensions should be such that it fits exactly into the openings of the arches made earlier.
To give additional strength to the door structure, it is strengthened with the help of corners and jibs. The jibs can also be made from profile tape.
A similar strengthening of the structure is applied both above and below the door.
The door is hung on the arch using ordinary hinges
The window is made as follows - a transverse board is installed on the opposite arch at a height of about 1.5 m. Thus, a small window is obtained. A small door is installed in it, from a bar similar to that used in the manufacture of the door.
The appearance of the window
Just like the door, the window should be reinforced with corners. Since its dimensions are small, you can do without jibs.
For additional strength, it is enough to use an end screw
The hinges for the window are not installed on the side, but on top so that it opens vertically. This will make it easier to adjust the degree of opening of the window.
Action number 7 Covering the greenhouse with a film
Winding an acute angle of the ridge with a substrate reinforced with a stapler
Before you cover the greenhouse with a film, you should take care of the safety of the latter. The frame of the greenhouse has many irregularities, sharp corners, and simply fasteners that can damage the film.
It is recommended to wrap all sharp surfaces of the frame with a soft material - for example, a 5 mm thick laminate substrate, which will be attached to the frame using a conventional construction stapler.
Processing the rear wall of the greenhouse with a laminate substrate
Similarly, all sharp surfaces of the greenhouse frame should be wrapped with a substrate from above and below.
The film is recommended to be nailed using thin flats of the same substrate, so that the contact between the staples and the film is minimal.
Next, the greenhouse is covered with a film, which is fixed using the same stapler.
The lower polyethylene mounts can be nailed to the base with the help of a substrate, but it is better to replace them with wooden slats later
On this, the work on creating a greenhouse can be considered completed.
Action #8 Filling the greenhouse with soil
Next, fill beds greenhouses ground, lay the nutrient mixture on them and proceed directly to work with the greenhouse (plant seedlings, seeds, etc.).
If the design with one pass and two beds requires too much soil, you can proceed as follows: use two passes and three narrow beds. With such a layout, the beds will be more convenient to process and the amount of soil required to fill them will be 1.5-2 times less.
VIDEO: GREENHOUSE OWN HANDS / How to make a greenhouse
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GREENHOUSE OWN HANDS / How to make a greenhouse
[Instruction] How to make a greenhouse out of plastic pipes
![[Instruction] How to make a greenhouse out of plastic pipes](https://iherb.bedbugus.biz/wp-content/uploads/thumbs_dir/hqdefault-11-ob8wu78vt8vk9z6ji1vtut1aq3irsb9zvyxh1hzsjg.jpg)
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