Usually, at the sight of snow-white whitewashed trees (especially in a well-groomed garden), an inexperienced viewer has a strong association with putting things in order on the site, garbage collection, giving the territory a neat appearance and other decorative and aesthetic delights.
But in fact, whitewashing trees does not carry an aesthetic load at all. This is one of the most important (if not the most important) types of treatment on the outer skin of a tree, helping the plant not only survive the winter, but also stay in good shape throughout the year.
Thanks to a coating of a few millimeters applied to the bark of a tree, many problems of the plant that it may encounter during the winter or off-season are solved. In a sense, whitewash is a protective layer for your plants against a variety of potential hazards, from weather to various types of pests (microorganisms, insects, and mammals).
The article comprehensively considers various aspects of the process of whitewashing trees - from the timing of whitewashing to the types of compositions used. The issues of self-production of multicomponent whitewash, various methods of painting trunks and branches, as well as what equipment is needed for this, are also considered.
Content:
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The need for whitewash
Slaked lime - the basis of any whitewash mixture
Tree bark - this is an important plant organ that protects the inner layers (cambia and wood) from various external influences. Not only the yield, but also the life of any tree depends on the health of the bark and its ability to perform its functions.
Therefore, if gardeners or summer residents want everything to be fine with their trees, they must take care of their bark. In fact, this is relatively simple: since the bark is outside, the gardener always has access to it.
The bark protects the tree from the following factors:
- adverse weather conditions
- temperature fluctuations
- precipitation and ice
- wind and drafts
- sunlight, which in the spring can lead to burns
- heat and cold
- rodents (mice, hares) and other pests
- vandalism
Under the influence of these factors, the cortex itself becomes vulnerable. It cracks, breaks, wears off, gets sick, etc. To help the bark cope with these effects, it should be protected.
Whitewashing is one of the main methods of protection. It perfectly copes with most of the listed negative influences (perhaps, except for vandalism), strengthening the various protective properties of the bark.
garden whitewash
The main component of whitewash is lime, that is, calcium hydroxide. The choice of this substance is not accidental. Due to its chemical activity, it provides excellent barrel protection from fungi and rodents. The white color of lime reflects sunlight, thereby protecting the bark from burns.
Over time, lime absorbs carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, and its top layer turns into calcium carbonate (which is also white and also scatters sunlight well), the thin crust of which protects the rest of the lime layer from destruction and washing out. Thanks to this, the disinfecting properties of lime are preserved for a long time.
In addition, such a structure has good thermal insulation properties and protects the trunk from frost and temperature changes. Thanks to microcracks in the top layer, it still remains “breathable” and passes air to the bark.
All trees should be whitewashed, regardless of age. If there is concern that the thin bark of young trees may be damaged by the chemicals used in the whitewash, there are various methods to combat this phenomenon. In order not to burn the bark, it is recommended to reduce the concentration of lime, use chalk instead, etc.
An important issue that accompanies the process of whitewashing is to determine to what height the trunk should be whitewashed. Of course, ideally, it will be necessary to cover all branches to the level of foliage. But in this case, the material consumption will be too large, and this can be done with too much time.
On the other hand, whitewashing only the trunk will not be enough. To ensure good safety and protection of the tree, it is recommended to whitewash at least the first tens of centimeters of the main skeletal branches. It is recommended to whiten skeletal branches by 20-30% of their length.
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Tree whitewashing
It is recommended to whitewash the trees in the garden twice a year. Some gardeners recommend doing even three whitewashes:
- autumn. considered the main one. Produced in late autumn, just before frost
- spring. It is referred to as repeated or renewing. Held at the very beginning of spring (February-March) to come out in the off-season with guaranteed protected trees
- Intermediate. In fact, another update. Performed in the middle of summer
Of course, whitewashing performed in the fall is considered the most effective. If for some reason whitewashing was not done at the end of autumn, it is imperative to whitewash the trees in spring, since the most dangerous period for trunks is the February thaw, which may be followed by March frosts.
It is during this period that dark trunks can heat up to +12 ° C during the day, which will lead to the first attempts at premature sap flow. But with the sunset, the weather will take its toll, and lowering the temperature to -10 ° C will freeze the juice, even despite the layer of bark.
As a result, long cracks will appear on the trunks, a large number of which significantly impairs the movement of nutrients. Whitewashing, due to the scattering of sunlight, will not allow the latter to heat up the dark bark and provoke sap flow.
It is recommended to start the whitewashing process in the fall after pruning. The optimal time will be such a period when the air temperature drops to plus 4–5 ° С.
Whitewashing process in autumn
Some gardeners believe that the terms for painting trees are specific. For example, apple trees should be whitened one month after the completion of the fruit harvest, in mid-October, and apricots should be whitened 2 weeks after pruning etc. In any case, all stages of whitewashing must be completed before the time when the first snow falls.
If everything went well with whitewashing in the fall, then re-applying the protective layer can be done later - at the end of March or the beginning of April. Such liberties in terms are explained by the fact that autumn whitewashing has already fulfilled its heat and light protective function, and until mid-April there is still no one to protect the crop from - pests still unable to move actively.
Rodents will also avoid trunks as the lime concentration remains high for almost a whole year.
Intermediate, or summer, whitewashing is done only if the whitewash layer has begun to be washed off by rains or has peeled off. It should not be done if the tree has already begun to bear fruit.
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The composition of the mixture for whitewashing
The composition of the mixture for whitewashing
The whitewash mixture consists of several components and additives, that perform some of their functions. Understanding these functions will allow you to correctly select the composition of the mixture and, if necessary, replace the missing components with their functional counterparts.
Whitewash base
Lime
In most cases, slaked lime is used as the main component of whitewashing. It is obtained by diluting quicklime in water. Depending on the amount of water, one of three types of mixture is obtained:
- fluff (a mixture of quicklime with water in a ratio of 1 to 1)
- lime dough (proportion 1 to 1.5)
- milk of lime (1 to 3)
Each type of lime is used in the respective recipes. Mostly fluff is used, which has the consistency of sour cream. Other types are usually applied if they were obtained in advance.
They are used instead of fluff in the appropriate proportions (they take 25% more dough, 50% more milk). Lime slaking should be completed 2-3 hours before preparing the whitewash mixture.
Slaking lime for the preparation of whitewash
Attention! When extinguishing, the reaction temperature can reach up to 150 ° C, therefore, at home, mixing should be done in a metal container (for example, an old bucket) and take precautions when working with gloves. Naturally, you need to start preparing the mixture when the hot lime has cooled down enough.
Chalk can be an alternative to lime. But this is a very compromise solution, since it is chemically neutral and cannot provide the necessary level of protection against infections. In addition, chalk is more eroded by water. So that it does not wash off from precipitation, it is recommended to apply an additional protective layer to the dried chalk whitewash - for example, oil paint.
However, the potential harm to delicate and thin bark in chalk is much less (since thin bark can receive chemical burns from lime), therefore, chalk mixtures are used to whiten young trees.
Additionally, kaolin clay may be included in the composition of the base. It is necessary to give the mixture greater viscosity and good adhesion to the bark. In addition, clay will be a substance that strengthens cracks and minor damage to the bark. Thus, thanks to this component, additional protection against the penetration of infections will be carried out.
Fungicide
Treatment of apple trees from diseases and pests in autumn
This is a prophylactic agent designed to protect the bark from fungal diseases. The presence of this component will enhance the effect of other antifungal agents that were previously applied to the bark of the tree. Most often, copper sulfate is used for this purpose.
fastening component
Whitewash
As a means of ensuring the adhesion of the mixture to the bark of a tree, some kind of glue (PVA, wallpaper, carpentry, etc.) or soap can be used. For young trees or seedlings grown in nurseries, it is recommended to use soap, as it is more gentle than glue.
Additional components
Manure - a natural gluing and antiseptic component of whitewash
In addition, other components may be included in the composition of the whitewash mixture. Usually they enhance the action of the main components - they cause a better “sticking” of the mixture to the bark, enhance the antibacterial or antifungal properties.
These may be:
- manure (or mullein) - natural products that provide better adhesion to the bark, and also have antiseptic properties
- carbolic acid - additional protection against rodents (due to the smell)
- milk or whey - provide better adhesion and longer retention time of the protective layer
For use as a whitewash ingredient, cow or horse dung is suitable. Sometimes, to improve its adhesion (if it is fresh and too thin), finely chopped straw or shavings are added to it.
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Preparing the whitewash mixture
You can use the ready-made mixture (buying it in a specialized garden store and diluting it with water, according to the instructions), or you can prepare the composition yourself. There are a large number of recipes for preparing the mixture, and you can use any of them that is suitable for a given situation.
In the general case, the composition depends on what types of trees and how old they are, but there are also universal recipes that are suitable for almost all situations. As practice shows, mainly the mixture recipe is selected based on the presence of certain components.
Most popular recipes:
- In 10 liters of water dissolve 2.5 kg of lime (fluff), 0.5 kg of copper sulfate and 10 tablespoons of wood glue
- 2 kg of lime are dissolved in 10 l of water, 0.3 kg of vitriol, 1 kg of sifted clay are added, and 5 l of manure are added
- 2.5 kg of chalk are dissolved in 10 liters of water, which must be thoroughly mixed with 100 ml of flour paste
- In 8 liters of water, mix 1 kg of manure, 1 kg of lime and 0.2 kg of copper sulfate
- In 10 liters of water, you need to dilute 2 kg of lime, 0.4 kg of copper sulfate, 100 g of casein glue
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Whitewashing sequence
Tree whitewashing in autumn
You need to understand that whitewashing fruit trees is not just smearing the composition along the trunk with a uniform and beautiful placement of lime layers. Although, of course, there is an aesthetic moment in the process, you should always remember that the main thing in whitewashing is protection.
Therefore, preparation for whitewashing and its implementation must be carried out in accordance with all the rules. A complete cycle of whitewashing consists of four stages, performed sequentially.
Barrel cleaning
Barrel cleaning process
Most trees (especially mature and frankly old ones) do not have smooth bark. Over time, it cracks, flakes off, various foreign bodies and formations appear on it, etc. In addition, various parasitic or symbiotic organisms - mosses and lichens - can settle on the bark.
All this should be removed from the tree before whitewashing. For this purpose, you can use special devices in the form of a special scraper, washcloth, knife, etc.
The barrel cleaning process is carried out at high humidity. Ideal - after the rain. Small cracks should be treated with plastic or wooden scrapers so as not to damage the bark. You can also use a hard plastic brush to remove dead parts. The use of metal instruments at this stage is undesirable. Cleaning the barrel with a plastic scraper is shown in the photo below.
The soil under the tree at this stage should be covered with oilcloth or some kind of cloth, so that all falling pieces of bark, as well as moss, lichens and other foreign bodies that may contain potential pests and their larvae, are collected and subsequently destroyed (it is best to burn them).
Barrel disinfection
Preparation of a composition for spraying based on copper sulphate
After the top layer of the bark is cleaned, it is necessary to disinfect the trunk, especially those places where cracks and other damage are located. In this case, almost all harmful organisms that could remain on the tree after cleaning will be destroyed.
In addition, since the tree can be further injured during the cleaning process, there are potential sites for infection to enter the bark.
Disinfection is carried out with chemicals. In this case, you can use the following recommendations:
- Wash the barrel with an ash-soap solution. To prepare it, about 3 kg of wood ash and 60 g of laundry soap are dissolved in 10 liters of warm water (temperature +40 ° C). The last component is necessary to ensure the adhesion of the solution to the bark. Processing is done with a brush while the liquid is still warm.
- Use fly ash for flushing. To obtain it, 3 kg of ash and 10 liters of water are mixed, after which the mixture is brought to a boil and cooled. The liquid in the tank above the sediment level is lye. It is poured into a separate container, diluted with water at a concentration of 1 to 1 or 1 to 2 and poured into a sprayer. Then spray the entire whitewash area
- Spraying the trunk with copper-containing preparations. It can be Bordeaux liquid, a 3% solution of copper sulphate, Oxyhom, etc.
- The use of iron sulfate 6%
Barrel processing
Treatment of wounds
Treatment of damaged areas of a tree with garden pitch
After the trunk has been cleaned, all major wounds and damage to the bark will become clearly visible. They, of course, need special treatment so as not to become a place for infection to enter the trunk.
Various means can be used to treat wounds:
- clay talker
- Wax-based garden putties
- garden var
- biomasks
- special pastes
Garden var is the most popular wound treatment. This is a cheap and effective tool that has a universal purpose. Thanks to the var, not only is the tree protected from infections, but it also prevents the damaged areas from drying out.
garden var
Var can be purchased at a specialty store or made independently.
To prepare it you will need:
- 400 g rosin
- 200 g wax
- 100 g of any fatty component (lamb or pork fat)
- 50 ml ethanol 90%
Preparation is as follows:
- rosin, fat and wax are mixed in a water bath until a homogeneous thick mass; mix everything thoroughly until the lumps completely disappear
- while continuing to stir the mixture, carefully pour alcohol into it
- remove the mixture from the bath and let it cool
- the composition is insisted for 1–2 days, after which it is packaged in sealed containers with a note on the date of manufacture (such a var can be stored for no more than 5 years)
Garden pastes, or biomasks, are substances of a viscous consistency, which are able to fill the damaged areas and have good contact with the bark. Due to their adhesive properties, they are able to stay on the surface of the bark for quite a long time.
Applying whitewash
Bast brushes for whitewashing trunks
Only after all the preliminary steps have been completed, whitewashing begins. The choice of composition, as well as the height of the whitewash, were considered earlier.
Whitewashing itself, unlike pre-treatment, should be done on a dry day. In addition, the bark of the tree must also be dry.Therefore, you should carefully study the weather forecast during this procedure.
It is recommended to apply whitewash in several layers (from 2 to 3), although this is not a mandatory requirement, since sometimes this cannot be done technically. Usually the second and subsequent layers are applied after the first has dried, and such a process can take a long time.
Whitewashing wood with a flat brush
Another important issue to be decided at this stage is the choice of the tool to be used. Despite the seeming simplicity of the question, it is very important, since the method of applying whitewash depends on the type of solution used and the species of the tree. Consider the different types of tools that can be used.
An ordinary washcloth brush is actually a universal tool suitable for whitewashing any type of trunk - both with smooth and with textured or rough bark. It is cheap, does not injure the bark, and with its help you can paint over any details of the bark relief.
The only downside to this tool is relatively small amount of whitewash applied in one pass. With its help, covering the trunk in several layers becomes a rather difficult task.
More advanced version - flat flute brush. You can also use a round one, but with a flat whitewash it will be more convenient, and the consumption of the composition will be a little less.
Rollers with long pile, used for whitewashing trees
Such a tool would be ideal for young trees or those with smooth bark. The main advantages of whitewashing with a flat brush are speed and convenience.
For whitewashing large diameter trees with rough and thick bark, you can use a paint roller. The advantage of this method is that the roller with a long pile penetrates into the deepest cracks on the surface of the bark. This allows you to apply whitewash on the trunk in just one pass.
With a large number of trees in the garden, you can use the semi-industrial method of whitewashing by using an airbrush. Since, unlike acrylic or water-based paint, large fragments can occur in the whitewash mixture, it is necessary to use nozzles with larger holes.
A typical spray gun used as a tree whitewash sprayer.
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Whitewashing is an important procedure necessary to protect trees during the transition from hibernation to awakening. It allows you to protect the bark of trees and shrubs from temperature changes, solar radiation that can burn its unprotected areas, as well as from the penetration of infections.
This is especially important at a time when significant temperature fluctuations are observed during the day, capable of causing the onset of sap flow followed by night frosts. Thanks to whitewashing, the process of awakening plants turns out to be extended in time, and the bark suffers much less from damage.
VIDEO: How, when, with what and why to whitewash trees in the fall
How, when, with what and why to whitewash trees
How to whitewash trees in the garden: description, timing (autumn, spring), composition, preparation, tools | (Photo & Video)
