Aphids are one of the most common types of insects. In total there are about 4 thousand species of aphids.
Despite external differences, the duration of the life cycle and methods of reproduction, all aphids have one thing in common - these insects parasitize trees, drinking their juices and spreading various viral infections.
Its fragile body with a weak exoskeleton is damaged by the slightest physical impact, any precipitation in the form of average rain can literally wash away the entire aphid colony, leaving no trace of it.
Even ants, protecting aphids living with them in symbiosis, are not able to repulse predators like ground beetles, lacewings or ladybugs, which “cleanse” aphids from trees literally within a few tens of minutes. But despite all this, the aphid lives and thrives, because it has a huge advantage that negates all its weaknesses: a short reproductive cycle (several days) and huge fecundity. Aphids breed in almost any conditions (temperature from +12 to +35°C), therefore, theoretically, in 3-4 generations, one insect can give birth to more than a hundred thousand individuals.
Due to the peculiarities of its reproduction, the aphid population is able to occupy the entire garden area in a matter of days and significantly reduce the yield of trees and shrubs. In addition, a small insect does not care which plant juice to drink - garden, garden, greenhouse or indoor, so the fight against aphids is relevant not only for gardeners and gardeners, but also for lovers of indoor floriculture.
Content:

Types of aphids and their negative impact

green aphid
About a third of all aphid species live in Eurasia. The most widespread on the European continent are the following types:
- green;
- black;
- cotton;
- helichrysic.
Description of varieties

black aphid
Representatives of green aphids can be found on any plant. These parasites prefer fruit trees and shrubs, as well as large perennial flowers and herbs. From garden crops, green aphids mainly affect nightshade - they can be found on potatoes and tomatoes.
Black aphids live in vegetable gardens, affecting any low vegetation - from beets to legumes. In addition, berry crops and some ornamental plants are affected by aphids. At the same time, these crops may not have a garden “registration”. For example, black aphids readily feed on the juice of physalis, tuberous flowers (irises, callas), its larvae can be found on tender leaves of anemones.
Cotton aphid is also a garden dweller. The result of its activities is low yields of melons and pumpkin crops.

Cotton or melon aphid

Helichrysalis aphid
The Helichrysalis variety prefers cultures with a large bone. First of all, trees of the Plum family - plum, blackthorn, cherry plum, etc. - are at risk. Also, representatives of this species suck the juice from the apple tree, peaches, apricots, viburnum, linden.
Aphid migration methods

Aphids on garden plants
During the season, aphids do not migrate. Toward the end of summer, the first males appear in aphids and subsequent generations can contain both wingless and winged insects that are already able to fly from plant to plant.
One of the last generations of aphids immediately after the flight to a new place lays eggs, which hibernate and insects emerge from them in the spring, occupying a new "territory".
Harm from aphids

Large pest colony
Aphids are dangerous for young plants and shoots. By sucking out nutrients and cell juices, it can significantly weaken the plant and slow down its growth rate. In addition, aphid saliva is a poison for a plant (moreover, it is not the secretions themselves that are poisonous, but the fungal toxins that appear on plants thanks to it).
Its negative impact is complex:
- the foliage of plants twists and deforms;
- shoots die off;
- growth stops.
Viral and fungal diseases can be transmitted from plant to plant through aphid saliva. Infections with viral diseases in 90% of cases occur due to aphids. Ants, picking up the sweet secretions of aphids (fall) and eating them, themselves become carriers of the virus on their paws. It harms aphids and bees, as they can collect its honeydew, mistaking it for nectar.
If no methods of influence against aphids are used, after 2-3 generations it will be possible to forget about a good harvest. Consider the various methods for combating aphids that are currently used.

Method number 1: Chemical methods

Application of factory chemicals in the form of an aerosol
One of the most effective ways to kill aphids is the chemical method. Currently, the chemical industry has developed several hundred special tools that can quickly destroy insect colonies of any size. In addition, there are about a dozen lines of preventive drugs to avoid the appearance of insects in the future.
Consider the application of these methods in more detail.
Classification of chemicals

Galls, a frequent companion of aphids
There are three main groups of chemicals used to control aphids. All of them are relatively mild insecticides, the harm to the environment is small. Something more serious (for example, acaricides and other agents against thrips and ticks) is not recommended. These insects also die when relatively “weak” chemicals are used.
Depending on the type of insecticidal active substance, they are divided into:
- pyrethroid agents: Decis, Decis Profi, Ariivo, Iskra, Fury, Confidor and other intestinal pesticides, as well as contact and intestinal-contact substances;
- nicotine preparations: Vector, Ratibor, Bombardier, etc.;
- Phosphorus-organic insecticides: Actellik, Aktara, Nurel, Fitoverm, Fufanon, Karbofos and others;
- biologics (containing bacteria that are pathogenic organisms for insects): Bitoxibacillin, Lepidocid, Bicol, Batsikol, Trichopolum.
For direct control of insects, drugs of any of the listed groups are used. They are usually supplied in the form of powder or ampoules. If the recommended doses are observed, the preparations kill insects within 2-4 hours.
For bushes and small fruit trees treatment of plants with systemic phosphorus preparations is recommended. It must be carried out before the opening of the kidneys, that is, such treatment is of a preventive nature.
Pyrethroids are applied after flowering has ended. Nicotinoid drugs are used against aphids that are located on plants affected by galls - such chemicals can successfully resist both aphids and the cause of galls (various parasitic worms, other insects, etc.)
Frequency of application of chemicals

Insecticide "Aktellik"
If with the help of insecticides it is not possible to completely rid the plants of aphids, they are re-treated. At the same time, there are temporary restrictions on the use of drugs.
Nicotinoid drugs are allowed to be re-used no earlier than 21 days after their use. Pyrethroids and phosphorus-organic compounds - not earlier than after 14 days.
Limitations of the use of chemistry

Biological products for plant protection
Despite the high efficiency of the chemical method of destroying aphids, it has certain disadvantages.
Insecticides in any form are not harmless. In particular, they can cause the death of birds and especially their chicks, which parents feed heavily in summer. For a person, these funds can also be dangerous and, when working with them, care must be taken. Precautions include skin, respiratory and eye protection.
But aphids can theoretically appear on plants at any time, and you need to start fighting it as soon as possible. If at the same time the use of insecticides is not possible, other methods of controlling aphids are used.
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Method number 2 Folk remedies

Folk remedies for fighting aphids
Folk remedies for combating these insects mainly consist of spraying the leaves of affected plants with various infusions or decoctions, as well as mechanical and agrotechnical methods of control.
Use of infusions

Folk remedies for fighting aphids
This is the simplest, but very effective method of killing insects. It is also not harmless, since high concentrations of certain substances can cause burns in plants and be toxic to both plants and humans.
The use of such a method must be accompanied by certain rules. In particular, it is recommended to test its effect on a limited area before mass application of a composition.
Such funds are used with a frequency of 1 time per week. During flowering and harvesting periods, their use is acceptable, although not desirable. Application to leaves affected by aphids is done by spraying. It can be either a manual sprayer or a semi-professional sprayer with a pump. It is best to spray in cloudy weather in the evening.
It is possible (but not desirable) to apply drugs using another means, for example, brushes, but their effect will be significantly lower. Any of the listed solutions is effective only when applied evenly to the surface.
Many of these solutions contain soap. This component is required for the following functions:
- It is used as an adhesive, "gluing" the surface of the sheet and the active substance, so that it is not washed off with water.
- Creates a thin layer of film on the leaves, making them rougher, making it difficult for aphids to pierce them.
- Upon contact with the body of the aphid, the soap penetrates into its trachea, making it difficult for the insect to breathe.
Consider the most successful recipes for infusions against aphids:
soap solution
Finely chop 100 g of onion and add 2 liters of water, soak for 3 to 7 hours. Add about 10 g of soap to the resulting infusion.
Soap-iodine solution
Dissolve 2 caps of iodine in 5 liters of water and add 50 g of soap chips (should be rubbed on a fine grater). The mixture is recommended to be used no later than half an hour after preparation.

Soap and soda solution
Soap and soda solution
In 2 liters of water, dissolve 2 salt spoons of baking soda (or 1 tablespoon of soda). Then rub 15-20 g of laundry or tar soap on a fine grater and add to the mixture. Stir until complete dissolution.This is one of the most effective and long lasting remedies (about a month) because the presence of sticky drops of soap will help keep the baking soda on the leaves and stems. Sometimes 30-50 ml of finely crushed wood ash (the so-called ash-soap solution) is added to the composition.
Soap solution with chamomile
Pharmaceutical chamomile in dry form (100 g) is poured with a liter of water and left for 12 hours. After this time, another 1 liter of water and 5 g of soap are added to it.
In addition, pepper, dandelion, marigold infusions are used. Why 350-400 g of dried stems of the listed plants are used per 1000 ml of water. They can be either with the addition of soap (4-5g per 1 liter of infusion), or without it. Soap containing birch tar is best suited for this purpose.
Soapy alcohol solution
Depending on which plants the alcohol mixture is applied to, its recipes may vary. So, for trees, the following composition is used:
A bottle of vodka (or 200 ml of alcohol) and 30 g of soap chips are added to 3 liters of water.
For roses, ornamental and vegetable crops, it is recommended to reduce the amount of vodka to 100 ml, leaving other components in the same quantities.
For indoor plants, a more complex recipe is used: 300 ml of refined vegetable oil, 200 ml of vodka and 20 g of soap are added to 2 liters of water. The oil in this case acts as the thinnest film covering the surface of the leaf and preventing aphids from breathing.
Acetic solution
Dissolve 15-30 ml of vinegar essence in 10 liters of water (or 200-300 ml of 9% table vinegar). Then 50 g of soap chips are added to the mixture.
Hydrogen peroxide
An effective remedy not only against aphids, but also mealybug and scale insects. Especially effective for the treatment of indoor plants.
Compound:
- hydrogen peroxide 3% - 50 ml;
- vodka - 2 teaspoons ml (or alcohol - 1.5 tsp);
- dishwashing liquid - 1 g;
- water - 1 l.
The mixture should be used within 10-15 minutes after preparation, it is not stored longer.

garlic water
garlic solution
Garlic cloves (100 g) are finely cut and immersed in 500 ml of water, letting it brew for about 72 hours. Before you start processing the plants, it is necessary to dilute a solution of garlic cloves in water at a concentration of 300 to 1.
tobacco leaves
Dried stems and leaves of tobacco weighing 100 g are finely cut and poured into 3 liters of water for 48 hours. At the end of the infusion, you need to add another 2 liters and spray the affected plants with the resulting solution. This solution can also be made ash by adding 100 ml of wood ash to it.
pine needles
Pine needles in the amount of 2 kg are poured with water (one bucket). The infusion requires regular daily stirring for a week. At the end of this period, the same amount of water must be added to the container and used for spraying.
Infusion of citrus
Aphids do not tolerate the smell of citral aldehyde, therefore, it is well repelled by any aromatic or essential oil from the peel of citrus fruits. Dried peel of lemon, orange, and other similar crops in the amount of 100 g is infused in 1 liter of water for 3 days.
The product has a high chemical activity, so it should be used in small doses. For the treatment of one plant up to 2 m high, use approximately one glass (230-250 ml) of this liquid agent.

citrus tincture
Infusion of nightshade
Solanaceous leaves and shoots (1 kg) are finely cut and immersed in 10 liters of water for at least 3 hours. Can be used on its own or mixed with a 1:1 soap solution.
Sorrel root infusion
Sorrel root in the amount of 200 g is immersed in 3 liters of hot water, where it is infused for at least 3 hours. Since the main component of the product is an acid, it is not recommended to mix it with soda or soap.
Acid-ammonia solution
It has a fast action time, although it is completely inapplicable for prevention. This tool works great on roses and rose hips. Helps to fight aphids also on currants and other ornamental bushes.
Compound:
- 2% solution of salicylic acid - 25 ml;
- ammonia - 15 ml;
- water - 500 ml.
All components are mixed until smooth, and then the affected plants are sprayed. Immediately before the treatment of the plant and 30 minutes after that, it is subjected to sprinkling.
Use of natural pyrethroids
Dalmatian chamomile leaves contain a large amount of natural insecticides that will be effective at all stages of insect development. To preserve these abilities, the leaves and buds of the plant are not recommended to be subjected to heat treatment. They should be dried and thoroughly crushed. Then the crushed leaves are poured with water and allowed to brew for about a week. For 1 liter of infusion, 5 tsp is enough. dried chamomile leaves.
Before using the infusion, strain it and add a little soap to it. You can also prepare a remedy from fresh leaves, for which they should first be doused with boiling water, and only then crushed and poured with water. This will require about 3 times more biomass.
When growing independently, it is recommended to plant Dalmatian chamomile on the leeward side of the site.
Prevention when using solutions

Aphid garlic - application
Infusions with a low concentration can act as a prophylactic. They are used by diluting with water in a ratio of 1 to 1. For prevention, it is recommended to treat the stems and leaves of the plant once a week.
Soap-containing solutions are retained on the leaves for a much longer time. They are recommended to be used for prevention once every two weeks.
The use of decoctions

Preparation of a decoction of celandine
Decoctions are more effective, since the concentration of active substances in them is even higher. Their harmful effects will be even greater than those of infusions, however, the effect will also be more significant. Decoctions are used in especially neglected cases, when the population of aphid colonies is high.
Recipes for the most common decoctions:
- The stems and flowers of freshly harvested celandine (800 g) are immersed in 2 liters of water and infused for 24 hours. Then the resulting mixture is boiled for half an hour
- One hundred grams of dried tobacco leaves are poured into 3 liters of water and left for a day. Next, another 2 liters of liquid are added to the infusion, brought to a boil and over low heat and kept for another 2 hours
- The stems and leaves of nightshade in the amount of 500 g are placed in a container of boiling water with a volume of 3 liters. Boiling continues for about half an hour. Pour another 5 liters of water into the resulting broth and put 30 g of laundry soap
- It is also allowed to prepare a similar mixture of potato husks, but it will take 2 times more than tomato tops in the previous version.
- Similarly, a decoction is prepared from onion peel. It is taken in an amount of 600-800 g and placed in 3 liters of boiling water. Boiling is carried out for 15-20 minutes, after which the husk is thrown away, the broth is filtered, another 3 liters of water are diluted and 50 g of soap chips are added.
- One hundred grams of hot pepper fruits are boiled for 60 minutes in 1 liter of water. The resulting mixture needs two days of infusion in a warm and cool place. After the end of the infusion, the concentrate is filtered and diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 10. It is also recommended to add 5 g of soap to the resulting composition.
- Dried yarrow in the amount of 500 g is poured into 1 liter of water. The resulting composition should be placed in a water bath for half an hour, then add another 4 liters of water and leave for 24 hours
Other Methods

Aphids on roses
Mechanical methods are used when aphids are still a little (3-4 lesions with several dozen individuals). They consist in the manual collection of insects and their eggs or cutting and destroying the affected leaves.
For indoor flower plants at home, traps are used - protection against aphids in the form of a barrier on the stems. As such a barrier, special adhesive tapes with a width of 40 mm or more are used. There are also wider adhesive tapes that are put on the trunks of large trees.Such remedies will only be effective at the beginning of the season, while the insects do not have wings to fly.
Agricultural methods (weeding the beds, loosening, destroying weeds, introducing ash into the soil, fumigating with sulfur, etc.) should be carried out regularly with a frequency of at least 1 time per week. Mulching eliminates these procedures for an additional week. Do not forget to sprinkle crops from time to time - a jet of water from plants can wash off most of the aphid colonies.
It is important to remember that watering plants with cold tap water from a hose is also not recommended - they weaken and lose their immunity not only to aphids, but also to other malicious pests.
Sometimes methods are used to repel aphids by scattering various substances with a pungent odor on the site. In particular, it is recommended to place bay leaves in the aisles of beds where bell peppers or various types of cabbage grow. Instead of them, shag can be used, it is also recommended to pollinate the plants with dry tobacco dust, apply powder from dried dandelions, etc. But, the effectiveness of such methods will be low, because over time the smell disappears and the repellent material will have to be constantly updated.

Method number 3 Biological methods

Biological control methods
No less common are biological methods of combating aphids. Like any living thing, aphids can either be distracted from their food base or destroyed by natural enemies.
These methods of struggle are absolutely not harmful to people and crops grown in the garden, since they are based on natural natural processes, therefore it is recommended to resort to them in the first place.
The use of repellers

Marigolds - the best repeller of many pests
Plants that have in their juices a sufficient amount of active organic compounds with a persistent odor can act as such. They are planted quite densely on the paths of possible aphid migration - along the edges of the beds, along the perimeter of the site, between rows, etc.
These plants include:
- onion;
- garlic;
- mint;
- mustard;
- fennel;
- coriander;
- pharmaceutical camomile;
- marigold;
- daisies;
- lavender;
- kosmeya;
- tansy
- and etc.
Use of Attractors

Legumes attract pests
This method uses the opposite principle of influencing insects. Instead of distracting aphids from a potential "victim", they use their attraction to other plants that have no agricultural value.
These include:
- begonia;
- hypnotic poppy;
- nasturtium;
- glue;
- legumes;
- mallow;
- and so on.
Unlike repellers located at the boundaries of plots or near the protected crop, attractive plants are planted away from the main crops, but in fairly large groups. It would be nice to plant such plants on the leeward side.
The use of predators

Biological methods of aphid control
Among animals, aphids are at the very bottom of the food chain. Due to the lack of natural protection, it is the food of many species, mainly insects and birds. Predators betray aphids, despite the active resistance of ants. Sometimes the damage is so great that it will take aphids several days or even weeks to restore the population.
Therefore, there is no need to destroy the ant colony located next to the site. A few thousand of these insects in an anthill will bring much more benefit, and with the right approach, the aphid will be forced to switch to crops that have no economic or decorative value.
The natural enemies of aphids are:
- ladybugs and their larvae;
- ground beetles;
- riders;
- hoverflies;
- wrens;
- earwigs;
- predatory bugs;
- small birds - sparrows, tits, robins, kinglets, linnets, etc.
You can attract insects to the site if you plant odorous plants - parsley, dill and carrots. To attract birds, it is necessary to equip houses in the form of birdhouses and hollows on the site, as well as placing feeders and drinkers on it.

Conclusion

Aphid control
The fight against aphids is one of the important stages in the “battle for the harvest”, since this small insect, due to its fertility, causes the most significant damage to plants and, unlike other parasites, can be present on the site throughout the season. Methods against aphids are very diverse and effective, the main thing is to apply them on time and constantly monitor the condition of the garden or vegetable garden.
Thematic video:
How to deal with aphids
How to get rid of aphids in the garden: folk and modern means
I tried, but birds work more efficiently than chemistry
And how did you persuade them to fly to you? Or do you feed them in the winter?