About three hundred years ago, the first specimens of phlox came to Europe from North America. Beautiful and lush plants immediately gained popularity in a new place and nowadays it is difficult to find a garden that does without them. Since the appearance of phloxes in the "Old World", breeders have done a lot of work, resulting in almost one and a half thousand varieties and hybrids of this beautiful plant. Almost all phloxes have a large number of large and fragrant inflorescences, and their flowering can last from June to September under the right care conditions.
Content:

plant description
Phloxes cannot be called quite unpretentious and easy to care for. Of course, like any other plant, they can exist relatively well without any human intervention, however, there can be no talk of beautiful flowering and maintaining a good appearance from year to year. The biological characteristics of the plant do not allow it to grow for too long in the same place; over time, the plants degenerate and give way to other, more adapted species.

Phloxes (Phlox) in pots
On the other hand, adhering to relatively simple rules, you can make phloxes a real decoration of any garden. The procedures for maintaining phloxes in a healthy state are much simpler than growing, for example, the same roses or tulips. The main thing in this matter is to strictly adhere to the sequence of actions during the warm season and take a serious approach to preparing plants for the winter period.
In botany, phloxes include a whole genus of the Sinyukhov family, numbering about a hundred species, of which about half are used in horticulture. The name "phlox", meaning "flame" in Greek, was given to the plant for the bright red color of the most popular variety in the 18th century.

Tall phlox varieties
The vast majority of phloxes are herbaceous perennial shrubs. They have both straight and creeping stems, the length of which can reach 1.5 m. The leaves of the plant have smooth edges, their shape is most often ovoid or slightly elongated; the tips of the leaves are slightly pointed.

Creeping plant varieties
root system phlox is fibrous and consists of many well-branched roots growing from the main rhizome. Their thickness rarely exceeds 2-3 mm and they penetrate the soil to a depth of no more than 15-30 cm. Almost the entire root system of phloxes is located at a depth of 3 to 30 cm. This is one of the important features of the plant, and if it is not taken into account, it will not be possible to achieve good results in growing phloxes.
Phlox flowers are small, no more than 2-4 cm in diameter. They have a funnel shape with a tube length approximately equal to the diameter of the flower. The flowers themselves are collected in large inflorescences of complex shape.
The inflorescence can grow in length all the time of flowering and reach huge sizes. At the same time, it will branch in an interesting way: each side branch, in turn, is divided 1-2 times. Thus, the phlox inflorescence will somewhat resemble a slightly elongated sphere, completely covered with funnel-shaped flowers.Their number in an inflorescence sometimes reaches hundreds, but usually, each inflorescence consists of about 40 flowers.

Phlox inflorescences close up
The plant bears well in our climate and is often propagated by seed, although this is not the most popular method of propagation. It is mainly used to breed new varieties or hybrids.

Phlox seeds
The fruits are small boxes of round or oval shape, depending on the variety, containing from several tens to several hundred seeds. Usually, perennials have much fewer seeds than annuals.

Cultivation and care
Lighting and site selection
Phlox grow well in any light, however, it is necessary to take into account a number of factors that affect the quality of their flowering. Partial shade is most preferable, with the time spent under the influence of sunlight no more than 6 hours a day. If the plant is located in an open area, it is necessary to shade it during the midday heat.

Phlox bush on the south side of the site
In the sun and in partial shade, the plant forms a large number of lush inflorescences. If the bush grows in the shade, the number of flowers will be somewhat less, however, the flowering time will increase by about a third.
The above is true for the shrub forms of the plant. Varieties with creeping shoots have a slightly different physiology and prefer exclusively sunny sites, so they should not have too tall neighbors on the south side.
Soil preparation
Phloxes can be grown on any soil, but light loams are best suited for them.. Pits for planting phloxes must first be prepared. To do this, in the autumn it is necessary to carefully dig up the area allotted for the plant to a depth of about 30 cm. The soil must be loosened and cleaned of old roots and weeds. Next, it is necessary to form shallow pits with a diameter of about 30-40 cm, into which a nutrient substrate is added.

Hole for planting phlox
The preparation of the substrate must take into account some features. The acidity of the soil for growing the plant must be neutral. If the soil is acidic, it must be limed. Depending on the degree of acidification, ash or lime can be used as a neutralizer. Ash is used if the pH level is at least 5, about 1 cup of wood ash is needed per bush. In more acidic soils, the same amount of lime should be applied.
Half a bucket of compost is added under each plant, which is mixed with a neutralizer if necessary. Sometimes complex mineral fertilizers are applied simultaneously with compost. In order to avoid damage to the roots from burns, all additives must be thoroughly mixed.
Humidity and watering
Phloxes are moisture-loving plants, but they do not tolerate excessive moisture in the root area. This means that there should be no stagnant water at a depth of up to 30 cm. Therefore, if the groundwater level is higher than 15-30 cm from the surface, the usual planting of the plant "on the same level" with the soil is unacceptable. With this planting, the roots in the water will not receive the required amount of oxygen and will be susceptible to root rot. This can lead to the death of the plant.

Drainage in the well for phlox
To avoid this, it is necessary to use, in the case of a high level of groundwater, beds with a height of at least 15 cm. And on soils where this level is below 15-30 cm, it is still desirable to consider a drainage system.That is why phloxes are recommended to be planted on slopes, or even soils, avoiding location in lowlands.
On the other hand, the plant perceives the lack of moisture very painfully. His leaves begin to wither and fall off, the flowers become smaller, and their number is significantly reduced. In addition, the length of the shoots also decreases. In order to avoid such situations, plants should be watered so that moisture penetrates to the entire depth of the roots. The approximate water consumption for such irrigation is about 7-12 liters per bush or 15-20 liters per square meter. Watering should be carried out in the evening; it is desirable to use water heated during the day in the sun. The frequency of watering is done as needed: if the topsoil is dry enough and is about to crack, it is time to water.

Watering the creeping form of phlox with a watering can
It is also undesirable for water to get on the leaves during irrigation, since in this case some infections (for example, nematodes) can be transmitted from diseased bushes to healthy ones. For integumentary and creeping forms of phlox, this rule can be ignored and watered along with flowers and leaves.
On the other hand, in the absence of natural precipitation, plants need sprinkling from time to time, so you can water the entire plant once a month using a fine mesh watering can.
Mulching
To keep the soil moderately moist, mulching with straw or freshly cut grass is recommended. The height of the mulch layer should be about 5-7 cm. Also, coniferous bark or humus has proven itself as a mulch material.

Phlox mulching
The absence of mulching automatically means that each watering must be accompanied by loosening the soil to a depth of about 5 cm. This applies to both artificial irrigation and natural. That is, after each rain, the soil will need to be loosened.
Another important reason for mulching is the peculiarity of the phlox root system. Since it is located close to the surface, it will also grow upward along the edges, which can lead to roots coming to the surface. They will need to be dug in with a layer of earth, however, so that up to this point they are not damaged by external factors (for example, heat from the rays of the Sun), it would be good if the areas of the proposed root outlet were covered with mulch.
And, of course, do not forget that mulch is an excellent remedy for various pests. (from rodents to bacteria) and weeds.
Preparing for winter
Perennial phlox bushes tolerate winter relatively well. In a sheltered state, they are able to withstand frosts down to -30 ° C. The most vulnerable part of the plant to frost are the underground buds located at the top of the root - it is they who need to be protected from freezing.

Pruning the plant before the onset of winter
At the same time, before each winter, it is necessary to completely remove the shoots of the last year, since a large number of harmful insects and pathogenic bacteria hibernate in them. Above-ground shoots will not survive the winter early, so it is better to remove them now than to do it later in early spring with the risk of damaging new growth.
The sample of the plant is made "at the root", that is, at a level coinciding with the level of the soil. It is best to spend it in the middle of autumn, the deadline is the beginning of November.
After that, the lower part of the phlox bushes is hilled with earth.The height of the earth layer must be at least 10 cm, and the diameter of the embankment must be such as to completely cover the root system of the plant (usually it does not exceed 50 cm).
In the same way, cuttings planted this year should be wrapped. Although, due to the still undeveloped root system, there is no need to make embankments that are huge in area - it is enough just to dig the cutting itself into the ground.

Phlox prepared for wintering
Sometimes such hilling is done using rotted manure or compost of the same height. But, the best shelter option is to use a mixture of peat and horse manure in equal proportions. During the winter, horse manure will perepreet and lose its aggressive properties. At the same time, in early spring, the plant will receive excellent top dressing in the form of organic fertilizers.
If there are a large number of pathogens of fungal and other diseases in the soil, before the hilling procedure, it is necessary to treat the plant with antifungal and antiseptic agents for preventive purposes. In some cases, insecticides are used, but this does not make much sense. The probability of being attacked by insects during winter is close to zero, and an additional load on the plant in the form of a chemically active preparation is not always justified.
In some cases, especially characteristic of late planting, due to lack of time and heat, seed pods do not have time to fully form in phloxes. If the seed material is very important, the plants can be transplanted into suitable containers and transferred to the home so that the seed formation cycle is completed.
Fertilizer
The most difficult element in the agricultural technology of phlox is their top dressing. To ensure abundant flowering, phloxes have to literally devastate the soil in which they grow. However, no one wants to mess with their constant transplants. Long-term growth of phloxes in the same area without transplants can be ensured if the level of soil fertility is maintained by introducing the necessary top dressing.

Top dressing of phlox during budding and flowering with wood ash
The fertilizer application scheme should take into account not only the volumes required by the plant, but also its life cycle. In particular, active vegetation and flowering must necessarily take place against the background of active top dressing.
At present, the most popular method is to apply 5-6 dressings per season for phloxes, each of the stages of which coincides with some stage in the development of the plant.
Let's consider them in more detail:
The first feeding is done at the very beginning of spring, as soon as the snow completely melts. It consists of mineral fertilizers, in which nitrogen predominates. You can use nitoroammophos or urea in doses of 20 to 30 g per 1 sq. m. It is not recommended to apply granules directly to the soil in order to avoid burns of the phlox root system. It is better to dissolve fertilizers in water and water the soil.
The peak of consumption of nitrogen-containing fertilizers falls on the month of May - the time of active vegetation of phloxes. With insufficient nitrogen, phlox will have faded foliage and its growth rate will be small.
On the other hand, overfeeding flowers is also undesirable, since this will increase the growth of green mass, and the flowers will be formed in a limited amount. Sometimes such a rapid vegetation even leads to cracking of the stems and falling apart of the bushes, which subsequently leads to the defeat of the plant by a number of diseases.
The second top dressing is carried out in mid-May, while it is desirable to use organic fertilizers..
These may be:
- mullein infusion
- mixture of liquid mullein and nettle
- horse manure with the addition of sodium humate

Top dressing with bone meal when planting or transplanting a plant
When the time comes for budding and flowering (this period begins in early or mid-June), phloxes are fed for the third time. This top dressing will contain not only nitrogen, but also potash fertilizers.The approximate composition of the fertilizer is as follows: 10 g of potassium sulfate and 15 g of urea are dissolved in 10 liters of water. Instead of potash fertilizers, you can use ash (about 100 g per 10 liters of water).
Depending on the quality of the soil or the experience of the previous year (if phloxes are not grown for the first time), the amount of potassium sulfate can be slightly increased - up to 15-20 g. flowering period. You can judge the lack of potassium in the soil by the deterioration in the appearance of the plant, wrinkled flowers and leaves, the appearance of a brown dried rim along their edges.
The fourth dressing is done in the middle of flowering - its time falls on the end of June. In the previous mixture, it is necessary to reduce the nitrogen content and add phosphorus.
Thus, the composition of the mixture will be as follows:
- urea - 5 g
- potassium sulfate - 15 g
- superphosphate (regular or double) - 15 g
All this is mixed in the same 10 liters of water and applied under the plant. Superphosphates also contribute to abundant flowering and the setting of a large number of fruits. Phloxes fertilized with superphosphate are believed to be better able to resist fungal infections and tolerate bad weather conditions well.
The fifth top dressing is made closer to the end of the flowering time (in mid-July); during this period, most flowers will fade and the formation of fruit boxes will begin.
At this stage, nitrogen fertilizers are completely abandoned, and a mixture prepared from 10 liters of water, 20 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium sulfate is applied under the plant.
If you want to guarantee a normal wintering for the plant, there is one more - sixth dressing. She repeats the fifth, but is already done in mid-September.
If there are any concerns about the use of mineral fertilizers, organic fertilizers can also be used. For example, phosphates can be replaced with bone meal; it is not only a natural element, but also able to nourish the plant with phosphorus for quite a long time. Feeding with bone meal can be done once a year, at the beginning or end of the season.
Top dressing is best done in the evening, immediately after watering. If the soil is dry and poorly permeable to moisture, the plant can get a chemical burn of the roots. A good option would be to fertilize in cloudy weather immediately after rain. It is necessary to pour water with fertilizers under the very root, avoiding their contact with the leaves. It is believed that with proper fertilization, phlox can exist in the same place for about 7 years without crop rotation.

reproduction
Phlox can reproduce in a variety of ways. It can be both seed and vegetative propagation.

flame flower bush
The latter, in turn, is divided into:
- propagation by green stem cuttings
- autumn stem cuttings
- root cuttings
- leaf cuttings
- dividing the bush
- with the help of diversions
- with residual material after cutting
- in other ways
Consider the most popular breeding methods in more detail.
Propagation by green cuttings
One of the most effective methods used most often. Its essence lies in the fact that the harvesting of cuttings begins during the period of maximum growth of the green part of the plant. Thus, the most healthy material is used in reproduction.

Phlox cuttings
The formation of cuttings is carried out in the period 1-2 weeks before flowering. This usually happens at the end of May. Theoretically, later cuttings can also be used, however, with the onset of flowering, the shoots will already be of poorer quality and such cuttings will take root much worse.
The height of the plant at this time is about 15-20 cm. The shoots are cut from the plant, on which at least two well-developed buds remain. After that, all the cuttings are immersed in water for about 1 hour.Thanks to this procedure, the cuttings will better retain their properties, but it is not recommended to keep them in water for more than this time.

Phlox cuttings rooted in the ground when grown at home
Before planting, it is necessary to process the cuttings: remove excess leaves from them and cut them to about 6-8 cm. After that, the cuttings can be planted either in a greenhouse or directly in open ground. It is advisable to carry out all work with cuttings indoors or in the shade in order to preserve their freshness as much as possible.
The cuttings should be deepened to a shallow depth - no more than 1.5-2 cm. At the same time, be sure to compact the soil around each cutting. Watering is preferably carried out using a sprayer. Rooting cuttings occurs in about two weeks.

Protection of phlox cuttings with plastic bottles
In the case of outdoor cultivation, it is advisable to cover the cuttings with a layer of wet paper, plastic wrap or any other similar cover for the first couple of weeks. However, it is unnecessary to make this design completely sealed; the minimum degree of protection that this makeshift shelter will provide should be enough.
Reproduction by autumn cuttings
An alternative method of propagation by cuttings involves growing them in the winter in greenhouses, followed by planting an already almost adult plant in the middle of spring in open ground. Allows for earlier flowering next year.

stem autumn cuttings
Cuttings are harvested either after flowering has ended, or when its pace slows down significantly. The time of cutting the cuttings in this case may vary from August to the end of September. Usually, shoots are cut into cuttings, where flowering and fruiting have already been completed. At the same time, there is no need to leave a certain amount of buds on the shoot, since in a month they will be completely cut off before wintering.
The procedure for working with cuttings repeats the one described earlier in May, but with it, all cuttings are planted in pots or boxes for seedlings at home.
The soil for germination has the following structure:
- A layer of sand 2-3 cm thick is placed on the bottom of the box
- A layer of humus or peat is laid on top (thickness up to 8 cm)
- Again, sand is laid in a layer of 2 cm. An alternative to the top layer can be vermiculite
The cuttings are buried in the ground to a depth of about 3-4 cm, after which the entire structure is covered with a film, becoming in fact a mini-greenhouse. It is placed in a warm, dark place where the cuttings are watered twice a day.
After 2-3 weeks, rooting occurs and the first new leaves appear on the cuttings. After that, the cuttings can be transplanted into any seedling soil. Usually, from 1 to 3 kg of soil is enough to keep one cutting and bring it over the winter to a plant ready for transplanting into the ground.
You can use the soil from the garden so that when transplanting plants do not need adaptation.
Reproduction by dividing the bush
It is also often used in propagation, along with spring cuttings. It is believed that the best time to divide the bush is the beginning of spring or the beginning of autumn. In addition, material for such propagation can be obtained by transplanting a plant. Under normal conditions, the plant is propagated in this way once every 5-7 years. It is not advisable to do it earlier, since there is no need to transplant the plant or update it.

Phlox root system before separation
The division of the bush in the fall should be done only if the plant has already formed growth buds on the roots. The division of the root system should be such that each new fragment is large enough to contain a new growth bud. As a rule, they are located next to the old stems.

Divided plant bush into several parts
After dividing the bush, the plant is planted in separate holes in the manner described earlier.
seed propagation

Phlox grown from seed
Phlox seeds have good germination, so there is no need to plant them at home. Most often, they are planted in open ground in late autumn. If you still decide to grow seeds in seedlings, two basic rules must be followed:
- planting seeds should not be carried out later than mid-February
- before planting, the seeds must undergo stratification at negative temperatures (up to -5 ° C) for at least one month
The soil for seed germination can be chosen the same as in the garden, where an adult plant will grow, having previously disinfected it. To do this, it is enough to wash the soil with a solution of 0.2% potassium permanganate.
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Phloxes - champions in flowering: description, planting in the open field, reproduction and care (85+ Photos & Videos) + Reviews