Accessories for it can be purchased at any specialized store. The principle of assembling such products is simple - the main thing is to follow the instructions exactly. So, we will tell you in detail how to make doors for closet- do-it-yourself coupe
Content:
Read also: Landscaping your site with your own hands - (130+ Photo Ideas & Videos) + Reviews
Required Materials
Furniture stores offer to purchase ready-made systems for wardrobe doors from a variety of manufacturers. They differ only in configuration, installation methods and color design. However, the principle of their operation is identical.
Top and bottom guides
Don't skimp on accessories. Steel or aluminum profiles must have a perfectly calibrated geometry, the roller mechanisms must function flawlessly, and the fasteners must be made of durable metal. Otherwise, opening and closing the doors will be problematic. Yes, and such a design will not last long.
Top and bottom profile
For Assembly closet-compartment, except for chipboard or MDF for shelves, rear and side walls and internal filling of the door, we need:
- top and bottom guides: rails along which the wings move horizontally; the main weight of the product falls on the lower part; the upper guide stabilizes the canvas relative to the vertical; for massive structures, you can purchase durable steel products, however, in terms of ergonomic and aesthetic properties, they are inferior to aluminum products; if you want to save money, it’s better to buy not cheap plastic rails, but combined plastic structures with metal supports for rollers
- top and bottom horizontal profile: support-connecting elements serving as a frame; as well as guides, they are realized by footage
- roller hangers or supports: so that the door moves easily, without effort, several rollers should be provided at once; high-quality products must be equipped with bearings; the main load falls on the lower rollers, so be especially careful when choosing them
- intermediate vertical profile: its installation may be necessary with a significant width of the door; in the presence of narrow sashes, installation of vertical racks is not required
- profile-handle for easy closing-opening
- seals: are designed to dampen vibration and noise of the doors, as well as protect the contents of the cabinet from dust; are made in the form of a tape and glued to profiles and guides
- profile caps: they are installed from the ends
- stoppers: serve to protect the sash from knocking, they stop it when approaching the wall; can be mounted both at the top and at the bottom of the structure, the lower location of the stopper is more convenient
- locking mechanisms: for glass doors mainly magnetic latches are used; on structures made of MDF or fiberboard, universal, roller locks or locks with a key are installed; locking devices can also have the form of brass bolts
- additional devices: their number and type depends on the type of guides and rollers; for example, for automatic opening and closing, you can install an electric drive
Sliding system assembly diagram
Read also: Perennial flowers (TOP 50 species): garden catalog for giving with photos and names | Video + Reviews preliminary calculations
Before proceeding with the purchase of material, you should determine what size your product will be. All types of profiles, including rail and support ones, are sold in meters, which is very convenient. Cutting and processing the edges of chipboard or MDF, as well as glass or mirrors for internal filling doors it is better to order in a specialized company. Such work will cost a minimum amount, the details will turn out to be perfectly even, and the probability of errors will be minimized.
Measurements for calculating the number of components
The height of the structure is easy to determine. To do this, you need to find out the height of the future cabinet and subtract 40-45 mm from this figure (the height of the profiles).
Calculate the size of each of the wings. They should not be made too wide - due to the heavy load on the rollers, they will quickly fail. It is also worth considering the material of filling the door - the heavier it is, the narrower the doors should be made. Their optimal width is 50-80 cm. Since the sashes will not overlap each other, only the width of the vertical slats (1.3 cm) should be subtracted from the resulting width.
For convenience, it is better to enter the dimensions of each of the parts in a table indicating their length, width and quantity. There are many programs on the network designed to accurately calculate sliding door systems.
You only need to specify the number of sections, the height and width of the opening, the planned number of doors and the type of filling (chipboard, MDF or mirror). The program will automatically calculate the number and size of components.
When choosing components, it is also necessary to determine the type of system:
- rail (support) structures: the roller is installed inside the guide, so that the doors open smoothly, effortlessly; loss of running carriages is excluded
Support rollers
- hanging items: with top or bottom support rollers attached directly to the wall or ceiling; there are only latches on the floor, and there is no lower guide, so you won’t have to stumble about it anymore; outwardly, the absence of a rail looks quite aesthetically pleasing - all the details are hidden inside the structure; but such products are less durable and durable; plus they are much more expensive.
Hanging caster design
Read also: Veranda attached to the house - expanding the living space: projects, tips on how to create your own hands (200 original photo ideas)
Component manufacturers
It is not difficult to buy any components for assembling wardrobe doors today. Just look at the price list of any specialized store.
Profile range
The budget, but good options for components include Slider-Volkhovets products, complemented with Italian fittings, as well as guides, rollers and other details of the wardrobe from companies "Hercules" and "Rollan". You can look at the products from the company "Framir" - they are strong enough and are made of an aluminum profile of the correct geometry.
The leading manufacturers of components for sliding wardrobes include companies:
- absolute: provide consumers with high-strength, lightweight structures; four types of profiles are produced with different shapes and finishes; another significant plus of such products is ease of installation;
- Divendoor: fairly inexpensive elegant components made of steel in bronze, silver, gold, wood;
- Stanley: reliable products, almost ideal in their running characteristics;
- Raum plus: German quality at quite affordable prices; The warranty covers all components, down to the last screw;
- Komandor: another good tandem of quality and durability; guarantee up to 30 years;
- Ramtrack: on the world market, products from Canada are the standard of quality; This company was no exception, their steel products with a durable anti-corrosion coating can be called the standard of quality in all respects.
Components for wardrobes from the following companies are less known on the Russian market, but this in no way affects their quality:
- Geze Rollan: silent rollers, strong profile, long warranty; but these products, unfortunately, and cost a lot
- Ducase: the manufacturer claims that their components can last up to 27 years, opening and closing cycles of 100 thousand; however, the guarantee of such products is only 12 months
- Laredo: the price-quality ratio is almost perfect, and they look very decent
Read also: Making a greenhouse with your own hands from a profile pipe and polycarbonate: a complete description of the process, drawings with dimensions, watering and heating (Photo & Video) Cutting guides
There are no special instructions for cutting sliding wardrobe door rails. In order not to damage the decorative coating, when cutting, you only need to turn them upside down.
Bottom guide for door
The manufacturer is advised to cut aluminum products with a pendulum saw with a special circle. However, buying expensive equipment is only worth it if you assemble furniture professionally.
You can use an ordinary grinder with a metal disc or a circular saw to cut the profile. A fairly even cut is given by an ordinary hacksaw for metal. If there is a large gap in the miter box, plates of durable material that are suitable in size can be placed in it.
The length of the cut guides should be such that the bar freely enters between the walls. So that the future product does not warp, all cuts are made strictly at 90 °. Further, the cut points are polished with an emery cloth.
Read also: Japanese camellia at home - a winter flower from Asia: description, varieties, cultivation and care, reproduction (100+ Photos & Videos) + Reviews
Door assembly
Scheme for the manufacture of wardrobe doors
Installing a wardrobe door is quite simple. If all measurements and calculations are made correctly, in fact, you just have to assemble all the nodes and parts into a single whole.
- Installation of guides is perhaps the most crucial stage of work. Not only the service life of the future product, but also the convenience of opening and closing depends on the correctness of their installation.
- The simplest version of the guides are single-lane products. A single leaf will move along such guides, while opening half of the opening. In two-strip products, two or three doors move at once, and in three-strip products - up to six doors
- The assembly begins with the installation of the upper profile. If you want to attach the profile directly to concrete, holes are prepared in it with a puncher. To strengthen under the profile, it is better to put a lining of chipboard
- To mount the rails, you can also attach a transitional wooden beam to the ceiling. For single-leaf guides, you will need a beam that is equal in width to twice the width of the opening
- Next, the rollers are attached. To do this, simply “bring” them inside the profile
Read also: How to make a greenhouse with your own hands: for seedlings, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers and other plants. From polycarbonate, window frames, plastic pipes (75 Photos & Videos) + Reviews Frame assembly
The holes must have different diameters
For it, you need to take 2 vertical and horizontal profiles. Horizontal should be equal in width to the sash itself. Vertical products can have a symmetrical (designated "C") or asymmetric ("H") fastening.
To assemble the frame, the profiles must be laid out on the floor in the form of a frame. It is also necessary to “try on” the lower and upper rollers to it.
We measure the height of the frame together with the rollers and, if necessary, cut the profile strictly at a right angle
We drill through holes for connecting parts. When drilling them, note that the lower ones are made smaller. For example, 4 and 6 mm (their exact size depends on the type of particular fastener)
After inserting the filler (glass, fiberboard or MDF), the frame must be assembled by pulling fasteners and attaching the upper and lower rollers to it immediately
Frame assembly starts from the top with a hex key. To insert the upper rollers, you first need to slightly tighten the screw (but not all the way), insert the roller, and only then finally tighten the fasteners
Roller attachment
Installing the adjusting screws
The filler (MDF or fiberboard) is mounted inside the frame very simply. To do this, it is enough to apply a little effort or slightly tap the material from the back side so that it enters the grooves until it stops.
When inserting glass or a mirror, sealing rubber is necessarily attached - it is put on the ends. The seal must be positioned without overlap
To prevent the glass or mirror from breaking, do not forget to attach a protective whip to the back side. In this case, if damaged, the fragments will not crumble, and the likelihood of injury will be minimal.
Handle profiles must go into the grooves until they stop
The frame is ready. It remains only to "try it on"
Read more about assembling the frame for the wardrobe in the video below.
Read also: Do-it-yourself furniture and other wood products: drawings of benches, tables, swings, birdhouses and other household items (85+ Photos & Videos) Bottom rail fixing
Mounting the bottom rail
To make the product durable and the movement of the valves easy, when assembling, accurately align the angles at 90 ° and install all parts only strictly horizontally or vertically. Otherwise, the closet will simply warp.
- After assembling the frame and mounting the rollers, you need to perfectly adjust the bottom guide. You can do this in two ways
- To accurately determine the location of the lower rail, we use a plumb line - a weight on a cord attached to the upper rail. Mark the line with a pencil or marker. We retreat from it 20-22 mm deep into the future cabinet and fasten the bottom bar
- At first, it is only "baited". The final fixing is carried out only after checking the operability of the structure and the convenience of sliding the door. If the door movement does not suit you, you should double-check the vertical alignment of the rails and the dimensions of the structure
- If you have an assistant, you can immediately hang the door leaf and set it strictly vertically using a level, and then simply mark the location of the lower profile.To do this, we lay the lower profile, without fixing it, we fix the frame to the upper and lower profile (it is not necessary to fasten all the wings, enough side ones). Now we pick up the building level and begin to align the frame. If you are convinced that it is installed correctly, draw a line at the attachment point of the lower guide
- Next, the door is removed, and the bottom profile is mounted to the floor.
- No self-tapping screws or bolts are needed to attach the single-strip bottom rail. Although many instructions recommend the use of fasteners, we do not recommend using them. After all, if one of these bolts one day gets out a little, the door will simply stop.
- Double-sided adhesive tape or silicone sealant is enough to attach the lower profile. Only in a two- or three-strip profile, screws are additionally screwed in the center
- It is better to mount a chipboard lining under the lower guide. It is screwed in with screws so that the hats are slightly buried in the tree. Fasten them in increments of 20-30 cm in a checkerboard pattern
- When inserting the door, be extremely careful and accurate. While your product is not yet fully assembled, there is a high probability that you will accidentally break out the fasteners
- After installing the door, sealing brushes are glued to it. They serve as protection against dust and soften the course.
- It is required to install decorative plugs on all holes made in the profile.
Read also: We make vertical beds with our own hands: the best ideas of 2018. For vegetables, berries, herbs and flowers (65+ Photos & Videos) + Reviews Stopper installation
How and how to paint OSB: choose a reliable paint and coating method (Photo & Video) + Reviews
Roller stopper
A stopper is a flexible plate with shock-absorbing properties. When installed, you no longer have to align the door manually. It will close smoothly, and when passing to the wall, it will be fixed in this position. In order for the sash to close again, it will need to be pulled a little harder.
There are no big difficulties in mounting the stopper - before fixing the lower guide, this part must simply be inserted into the profile track with the parted parts up, and then stretched to the desired place closer to the wall. Its two springy ends should rest tightly against the recess. A small indentation is provided for the entry of the roller. In the future, the position of the stopper relative to the wall can be adjusted. The number of stoppers depends on the number of wings - that is, they will need three in a three-door design, two in a two-door design.
Read also: Installation of siding: step-by-step instructions for arranging the facade with your own hands. Online calculator for calculating the necessary materials (Photo & Video) + Reviews Door adjustment. Basic subtleties
Doors are installed last. If the porch is loose or poorly fixed, it will need to be further adjusted. Usually it is tied to only one side of the cabinet. We begin the adjustment of the porch and the junction with the rack from the side of the stopper. To do this, you need to adjust the screw located at the bottom of the door. It is located in the bottom hole.
The porch is adjustable with a screw
A hex wrench is used for adjustment. When it is turned clockwise, the structure will rise, counterclockwise - it will fall. We continue to rotate until the door begins to tightly adjoin the rack both from above and below.
If the door is poorly fixed, it takes a little move stopper. Since they fit tightly into the rail, it is problematic to simply move it in an already assembled cabinet. To advance the stopper, we use a small piece of dense plastic or fiberboard.
Stopper needs to be moved in the right direction
The reason for the poor fixation of the door may also lie in a poorly attached sealing brush. It can simply be filled into the nearest hole or glued with glue.
We glue the brush that has departed from the sash
The author of the following video intelligibly and clearly talks about each of the stages of assembling doors for a sliding wardrobe with his own hands. If you wish, you can ask him any questions on this topic.
VIDEO: Sliding wardrobes. Assembling wardrobe doors.
Doors for wardrobes: step-by-step instructions for calculating, assembling and installing do-it-yourself (Photo & Video)
