In fact, aerated concrete is an inexpensive artificial stone, in which, in addition to quartz, lime, cement is introduced to increase the strength characteristics, and a gas-forming substance is introduced to obtain a porous structure and increase the thermal insulation properties. A do-it-yourself house made of aerated concrete turns out to be quite durable and warm. However, this material will require mandatory additional finishing.
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Types of aerated concrete
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Its main components are sand, cement and lime.
There are several modifications of the material, which differ in the degree of thermal conductivity and strength. The letter D when marking denotes density. The numbers following it are the degree of density. The letter B characterizes strength.
The density of aerated concrete can be different
Here are the most common brands of aerated concrete:
- D400 B2.5: a material with the highest thermal insulation properties, this type of aerated concrete is lightweight, recommended for the construction of private 1-2-storey houses
- D500 B2: one of the most demanded brands, from such blocks it is possible to build buildings up to 3 floors high; but the thermal conductivity of such a material is slightly lower
- D600 B3.5-5: high-strength products with reduced porosity, designed for the construction of buildings with a height of up to 5 floors and their ceilings; walls made of such blocks require additional insulation, as well as the arrangement of a ventilated facade
To build a house from aerated concrete with your own hands, it is highly not recommended to purchase products with a density of D300. It is this material that developers complain about - cracks often form in it. Such aerated concrete is best used for the construction of utility rooms.
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Finished black frame house
High-quality autoclaved aerated concrete containing a sufficient amount of potassium silicohydrate (a similar structure is called tobermorite after the name of the volcanic rock with which it is similar).
In addition to low thermal conductivity, it has:
- low cost
- ease of laying: it is possible to lay down a wall of aerated concrete much faster than a brick wall; moreover, the weight of one block, depending on the density, is 21-48 kg; so you can work even alone, without assistants
- increased soundproofing properties
- excellent frost resistance up to 100 cycles
- ease of processing: you can even cut large blocks with a hand saw; when cutting a large amount of material, an alligator saw equipped with a reciprocating saw is used
- fire safety
- environmental safety
This porous material requires mandatory finishing.
A house built of aerated concrete is able to perfectly store heat. It does not require additional thermal insulation - a simple vapor-tight finish is enough. Plus, since reinforced concrete belts are used to cover the walls, which reduce vertical loads, houses made of this material are able to survive the strongest earthquakes.
But, like any material, aerated concrete has several disadvantages:
- increased vapor permeability: as already mentioned, products with closed pores have it to a lesser extent, but if you decide to save money by purchasing ordinary blocks, they will need to be protected from moisture with plasters, siding or tiles; otherwise, if moisture enters, the thermal insulation properties of the material will decrease
- less than that of brick, wood, strength
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Foundation for aerated concrete
Despite the lightness of the material, it is not necessary to build structures from it without a reliable foundation. After all, the main cause of cracks in any type of wall is frost heaving. In the process of freezing and thawing, it can destroy even the most durable material.
Plus, too weak a base can create an uneven subsidence of the building and, as a result, distortions of the walls, and in the future, the collapse of the building. It is also very important to properly insulate the foundation, protecting it from the cold, and therefore from movement.
Foundation types
For foundation houses made of aerated concrete, you can choose the following types of bases:
- slab: such a foundation costs a lot, but completely eliminates pressure from below; because it will move simultaneously with the ground
- tape: with digging a foundation pit under all load-bearing walls, including internal ones; such a closed loop provides the building with stability, protects against movement; a shallow-depth strip base can only be used on non-rocky soils that are not prone to strong shifts; in other cases, buildings are installed on deep foundations
- pile (on heavy steel screw or bored piles): used in areas with uneven terrain, difficult soils
- columnar: supports are erected along the perimeter of the building, as well as at its key points; the method is more suitable for the construction of utility rooms, garages
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Aerated concrete wall masonry
So, we will describe the main stages of building a house from aerated concrete:
After the concrete base is completely strengthened and cleaned from dust to protect it from moisture, it is covered with roofing material
Foundation waterproofing
For laying out the very first row, it is better to take not glue, but a cement-sand mortar. It dries longer, and you will have time to perfectly align future walls, check the evenness of the row
The solution for the first row is applied with a layer of 10 mm. This thickness will be enough to even out the stacking height. Please note that it will be impossible to correct errors later - it will be necessary to destroy the incorrectly laid block and install a new one in its place. Adhesive composition is allowed to cover up only small cracks
More convenient to use are blocks with a thorn-groove connection.They are also coated with adhesive on the sides.
According to the rules, any masonry starts from the highest point. To do this, stretch the fishing line along the perimeter of the building, aligning it with the building level.
The second block is installed in the opposite corner, and only then laying begins between the corner blocks. The central block is cut if necessary
Aerated concrete cutting
To get a perfectly flat wall, you should stretch a rope between the corners, and when laying out, focus on it
If the blocks are laid unevenly, after the mortar has dried, their surface can be sanded
All subsequent rows also begin to be laid from the corners, but with offset seams. Just like a brick, aerated concrete is laid out “with dressing”, so that the upper block necessarily overlaps the seam of the lower
It is more convenient to apply glue with a special bucket with cloves. After laying, each block is tightly knocked to the next one with a mallet (rubber mallet)
A bucket with teeth will help to evenly distribute the composition
To strengthen the wall, it is reinforced first in the first, then every fourth row. Bandaging is also required over windows and doors. To do this, with an indent from the edges of 3 cm, strobes are prepared in blocks, into which the bars fit. Please note that the dressing of the reinforcement should not fall on the corners, places of door and window openings. The recesses are filled with adhesive
Reinforcement of aerated concrete
A wooden lintel is attached above the windows and doorways. 3 rows of blocks are laid on it: the first outer one, 15 cm thick, then half of the second, 15 cm thick, the third 10-centimeter one is placed inside
Next, we need a reinforcing mesh. It is cut to the size of the window, metal bars are attached to it. The resulting frame is placed between the blocks, filling it with cement mortar
An armored belt is made above the window lintels - a formwork made of blocks 10 cm thick, inside which the solution is poured and reinforcement is laid
For mounting the Mauerlat (supports for roof rafters), metal studs are also mounted here. For them, it is better to use not ordinary rods, but special threaded products. In this case, the Mauerlat will hold on stronger.
Window opening method
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Basic Mistakes
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The consequence of direct water on the blocks and negative temperatures
In order for the building to turn out to be reliable and durable, during its construction, strictly observe the following rules:
- Ground movements during freezing and further thawing can lead to the collapse of the entire building. Accurately calculate the depth of the foundation and select high-quality material for its construction. The base must necessarily rest on compacted soil plus be laid on a pillow of sand and gravel. An important factor is the insulation of the foundation
- The use of steel as a grillage instead of reinforced concrete in the construction of pile foundations is unacceptable. The metal is not able to provide sufficient stability. Plus, it is more susceptible to temperature fluctuations and thermal expansion (changing dimensions)
- The combination of different types of foundations in one building is unacceptable. The load on them will be different, as a result of which the building will lead. When building extensions to a house made of aerated concrete on a different type of foundation, an expansion joint is required
- The presence of even a slight roll during the construction of walls is unacceptable: with vertical deviations of more than 5 mm per meter, cracks will form in them
- Be sure to check the correct laying - it is allowed to shift the seam of the previous row from the center by no more than 40%
- In order to avoid cracking of the walls, especially when using low-density blocks, you should not save on reinforcement. To reinforce spans, column locations, basement walls, use not only horizontal but also vertical reinforcement
- In places where the height of the building changes, as well as in the angles of rotation, additional temperature-shrinkage joints are provided (see photo)
- The use of wire instead of steel rods is permissible only in the construction of utility buildings: sheds or garages
- Finishing for the facade should not interfere with the removal of moisture. She needs to breathe. To protect porous blocks from moisture, use special types of plaster (ordinary cement-sand is not used), aerated concrete paint, tiles or ventilated siding facades. Do not leave the building for a long time without finishing
- Similar requirements apply to thermal insulation materials. If the house needs to be insulated, purchase mineral wool or use a brick. Styrofoam, polystyrene foam in this case will not work - the walls will constantly dampen.
Laying the first row is always the most difficult. You can get acquainted with this stage of building a house from aerated concrete with your own hands on the video:
VIDEO: Laying the first row of gas blocks. Do-it-yourself aerated concrete house
Do-it-yourself aerated concrete house: an overview of the material, advantages and disadvantages | (Photo & Video) +Reviews
VIDEO: 7 tips for aerated concrete you need to know
Do-it-yourself aerated concrete house: an overview of the material, advantages and disadvantages | (Photo & Video) +Reviews
