Amaryllis: description, home care, reproduction | (100+ Photos & Videos)

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Among lovers of growing beautiful plants at home, the amaryllis flower is popular.
The reason is its lush, albeit short-lived flowering, and ease of care and maintenance: even inexperienced flower growers can grow amaryllis at home and take care of it.

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Description

Appearance of flowers

Amaryllis (Amaryllis) is a perennial plant of the Amaryllis family. Its homeland is South Africa, but the flower is also found in Australia. Being a southerner, he is unlikely to survive in the open soils of Russia. The exception is the southern regions, for example, the Krasnodar Territory. Houses are bred mainly breeding varieties with more lush flowering.

Amaryllis belongs to bulbous; corms remain viable for up to 20 years. The plant is very similar to another flower of the Amaryllis family - hippeastrum.

They can be distinguished by the shape of the bulb: in the latter, it is less elongated and more flattened.

Other members of the family clivia, zephyranthes, krinum, eucharis, vorsia, hymenocallis.

Amaryllis, which has long been classified as a lily, has elongated dark green leaves up to 50-60 cm long and 3 cm wide. There are practically no leaves on the peduncle, which is why the plant has the nickname "naked lady".

On each peduncle (their number from one bulb is 1-3 pcs.) Grows from 4 to 12 buds, which then turn into luxurious flowers up to 10-12 cm in diameter. The color is varied: white, scarlet, lilac and pink, the number of petals also varies.

It is believed that amaryllis growing in nature does not smell. But home varieties bred by breeders have a delicate delicate aroma.

Lilac-pink inflorescences

The bulbs of an elegant plant contain a danger - a poisonous compound. To avoid getting the toxin into the body, you need to work with protective gloves, and then wash your hands thoroughly. Also, children and animals should not be allowed to the flower.

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Species and varieties

Flower variety "Aphrodite"

Amaryllis is a monotype: only one type of plant is represented in nature - Amaryllis Belladonna (from Italian Belladonna - "Beautiful lady"). However, through the efforts of breeders, numerous hybrids of beautiful shades were obtained.

The most popular and bright varieties of amaryllis:

"Durban": large red flowers with white stains
"Parker": bright pink flowers with a yellowish throat
"Nymph": flowers of pale pink tones with a pleasant terry
"Snow Queen": luxurious and large snow-white flowers
"Red Lion": large bright red flowers

Also among the popular varieties - "Vera", "Macarena", "Double Dream", "Aphrodite", "Gervase" and "Ferrari".

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Landing

Amaryllis is a real decoration for your interior

There are two ways to grow amaryllis at home: seeds or bulbs. But first you need to prepare a container for a flower and pick up the soil mixture.

Pot selection

Flowers in clay pots

It is recommended to choose a heavy and stable pot for amaryllis. A small plastic vessel is not entirely successful: the plant grows a lot of leaves, and during the flowering period it is also crowned with a magnificent “cap” of flowers.

There is a risk that under the force of its own gravity, the amaryllis will begin to lean, or even fall. A ceramic flowerpot is ideal: it provides the roots with the right amount of air and is quite stable.

The size of the container is selected in accordance with the size of the bulb: the distance from it to the walls should be about 4 centimeters. Too large a pot will delay flowering. It is advisable to choose a fairly deep pot: the root system of the bulb goes deep. Before planting, the container must be washed well, and it is better to sterilize.

The pot should have a drainage hole at the bottom to drain excess water. So the plant is less likely to get sick with root rot. Also, a drainage layer of expanded clay, pebbles and gravel is laid at the bottom.

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Priming

When choosing a soil, it is important to pay attention to its composition.

Bulb potting soil can be purchased at a flower shop or you can make your own. The main thing is that it be nutritious and sterile.

The most successful soil composition for amaryllis - a mixture of soddy soil, leafy soil, humus with sand - all in equal proportions. It is permissible to prepare a mixture of peat, sand, leaf and sod land and humus.

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Growing from seed

Reproduction by seeds

Seeds are formed during pollination, when pollen from the stamens of one plant is transferred to the pistil of another. Each box contains 50-80 seeds. Features of the first breeding method:

Flowering begins only five or six years after planting.
The bulb stays viable longer
Varietal qualities are not preserved

Seeds should be taken fresh, not older than five weeks. Drying them is not required: the number of shoots may decrease. The seeds are lowered into the ground and lightly sprinkled with earth with a layer no thicker than 0.5 cm. The optimum temperature for seedling germination is + 23-25 ° C.

Seeds will sprout in 1.5-2 months. When there are two leaves on the sprouts, they are seated in separate pots.

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Growing from bulbs

Growing from a bulb

It is the bulbous method of reproduction that flower growers prefer. Amaryllis blooms within 2-3 years after planting. The finished bulbs of the mother plant are placed in a substrate similar to that in which the "parent" grows.

Several bulbs can be planted in one pot, leaving a gap of 2-3 cm between them. When the plants bloom at the same time, they will look even more spectacular.

amaryllis bulbs

Landing steps:

Selection of planting material. Daughter bulbs should be healthy, with strong roots, not have signs of decay and mold, an unpleasant or sweet smell.
The bulb is cleaned of dirty or damaged husks, dipped in a manganese solution
Planting material is dried after the solution for 12-24 hours
Half the substrate is poured into the prepared pot, the bulb is lowered into it with the blunt end down
The soil is poured on the sides: about a third of the onion remains above ground level
The earth is crushed with palms, watered. Optionally, you can mulch with small stones

Amaryllis is rejuvenated by dividing the bulb. To do this, it is divided into 4-8 parts, without cutting to the base and trying to keep the scales. Then planted and germinated in the usual way.

If everything succeeds, a new sprout will appear on each of the parts. If not, the bulb will die. It is risky to propagate in this way: you can be left without amaryllis and without a bulb.

Care

When the plant sprouts, it remains to carry out competent care. This is not difficult, given the unpretentiousness of amaryllis

Temperature

In terms of thermoregulation for amaryllis, everything is simple: the usual room temperature of + 20-25 ° C is suitable for it. Cold air in the active phases of growth, he does not tolerate well

During the dormant period, he needs cooler conditions - up to + 10-13 degrees. An important requirement when growing amaryllis is the constancy of temperature: the plant does not like its sharp jumps. But regular airing will have a good effect on his well-being. The main thing is to avoid drafts.

When the amaryllis begins to bloom, you can lower the temperature slightly. This will extend the flowering period.

Lighting

Photo of flowers on the windowsill

Amaryllis comes from warm sunny regions. Therefore, the plant is photophilous; Lack of UV light will result in little or no flowering.

It is better to choose a southeast, south or southwest window for the pot. In the phases of active growth, it is necessary to provide amaryllis with diffused sunlight for 14-16 hours. Direct sunlight is undesirable: the petals may turn pale and fade.

The plant stretches towards the sun, so the pot will have to be rotated regularly. In the dormant phase, amaryllis does not require any additional lighting conditions.

Watering and spraying

Moisture of the earth

Amaryllis is a moisture-loving flower, so regular watering is required. You can use only soft settled water at room temperature.

It is permissible to irrigate through the pan. The soil must necessarily remain moist, but not excessively, otherwise the roots of the bulb will rot. Particularly careful watering is provided during the period of flower activity.

During the dormant period - usually it occurs in winter - watering is stopped. It is enough just to spray the earth in a pot around the bulb. The dormant period ends when the plant releases an arrow of a new peduncle. From the moment of its germination to 7-10 cm, watering is gradually resumed.

In the room where there are pots with "sleeping" bulbs, the humidity level should be 60-70%.

Amaryllis can be sprayed, and it is permissible, so that water gets on the flowers: it does not harm them. In active growth phases, the recommended humidity level in the room is up to 80%.

top dressing

Plant nutrition is a necessary process

Amaryllis is fertilized only during the growing season. For this, liquid mineral or organic fertilizers are purchased in a specialized store. Mullein or bird droppings are added as organic matter.

It is desirable that there is little nitrogen in the composition of purchased mineral mixtures: the element contributes to the abundant growth of foliage, and flowering, on the contrary, will be scarce. But there should be a lot of phosphorus and potassium. You need to feed the flower once every two weeks.

Transfer

Transplant process

Adult amaryllis is transplanted every 3-4 years. In other cases, it is enough to update the top layer of the substrate in a pot. It is permissible to transplant only when flowering has ended, and the stem-peduncle has withered. The transplant is carried out in this way:

For a few days you need to ensure good watering
Amaryllis is taken out of the pot, the roots of the plant are examined. If there are rotting or damaged areas, they will have to be carefully removed with a sterile knife.
The cut sites are treated with an aseptic preparation. You can use activated charcoal
If there are tubers on the bulb, they must also be carefully removed so that they do not interfere with the growth of the parent plant.
Then the bulb is transplanted into a new larger pot, drainage is laid on the bottom

pruning

Pruning indoor flower

Trimming the amaryllis is usually not required. Nutrients from the withering foliage move to the bulb of the plant, where, like in a pantry, they are stored until the next flowering period.

Dried leaves usually fall off on their own. If this does not happen, they are carefully removed at the very base or bent to the ground.

rest period

Amaryllis after flowering

When the active phase is behind, flowering ends, then the stem and leaves die off. The plant needs to gain strength in order to please the owner again with a flowering view.

To do this, the bulbs, after the leaves and peduncle die, are mixed to rest in a cool, dark, dry room, for example, in a basement or cellar. The main thing is to ensure the constancy of temperature and humidity levels.

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Why the plant does not bloom

beautiful bloom

Since amaryllis is grown at home precisely because of its beautiful blooms, the absence of flowers can surprise and disappoint the owner. The plant does not want to bloom for various reasons:

A large pot, which is why babies form on the bulb, taking all the strength of the plant
The bulb is too deep in the ground
The plant lacks nutrients, needs to be fed
Mistakes of care and poor conditions: amaryllis lacks light, heat, it is not sufficiently moistened or, conversely, overmoistened. It is necessary to reconsider watering and illuminate the plant with fitolamps
Poor condition of the roots, preventing nutrients from entering the bulb, leaves and peduncle
The plant was not at rest for long enough and did not have time to accumulate forces
Young age of bulbs
Disease or pest infestation

You can achieve flowering at the right time with the help of distillation. The best time for this is from December to April.

Diseases and pests

Thrips infestation of leaves

Signs of disease - the leaves turn yellow, spots appear on them, stunting is noticeable, lack of flowering. Amaryllis is more often affected by such diseases:

TOred burn (staganospros). This fungal disease is manifested by red spots on the leaves. The plant must be isolated, disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate and dried. Often the disease is the result of waterlogging: watering should be reduced
Anthracnose. A sign of the disease - the leaves become covered with brown spots and dry. Damaged parts are cut off, the plant is treated with Fungicide, watering is reduced
Gray rot. Amaryllis smells unpleasant, leaves have grayish or brown spots. You will have to dig up the bulb, remove the damaged areas, treat it with Fundazol, and transplant it into a new pot with clean soil. Watering again needs to be reduced
Root rot (fusarium). Root rot can quickly kill a plant. The measures are the same as in the treatment of gray rot

Mealybug

The following insects parasitize on the leaves and stem of amaryllis:

thrips
Aphid
Mealybug
amaryllis mealybug
spider mite
onion mite
Springtail
Shield and false shield

Pests manifest themselves by yellowing and spots on the leaves, the plant fades. Some, for example, aphids, worms, spider mites, are noticeable when examining amaryllis.

To eliminate the problem, it is treated with a solution of soap and alcohol and insecticides: Fitoverm, Fundazol, Spark, Kleschevit, Aktara.

Luxurious interior addition

The best way to prevent diseases and pests is to follow the recommendations for watering, fertilizing, sterilizing the plant, pot and working tools.

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Conclusion

With proper care, an exotic flower will decorate the apartment

Caring for amaryllis at home is easy, so don't hesitate to get one at home if possible. And you can learn more about breeding amaryllis from the video on the topic below.